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Mark, do you have a link for that website?

You should be printing at a slower speed with the metallic ink. I would check your profile, you may be dumping too much on the media. Ive installed, trained, serviced and now print with this platform. Zero drying issues.

Epson Display Trans Backlit Film

The dryer is for the s60 only. No need for it on the s40 or s80. The IQ off of the Epson surecolor is better than anything on the market in the sub 20k price range, Panel to panel line up is spot on. Honestly you may only need the s40. I run two, backlit prints all day long...

You will not require a dryer for the printer. The s60 has a dryer because it's a dual head CMYK printer designed for speed. The s80 is the same dual head, just utilizes the channels differently. You don't need to run the printer with silver or white, you can keep a cleaning cartridge in to keep...

no budget, Colorado M...fantastic printer, panel to panel line up is superb. Next if you need ink, epson s80, if you don't need white ink you can go with the s40 or the faster s60. The Epson Surecolor panel to panel is great. second to the M

So 225 degrees is going to be too hot which means you will need to reduce saturation to 100. Try to get temp 214-215

its not messy that's what they are for. what are your profile settings? I will say most problems with mesh is related to saturation and dry time. you need to reduce both. If the liner is separating in the heater, you can install the fabric pad typically used for two sided printing.

ahhh melamine board....I can tell you water will remove r1000 ink from it without any effort. UV cure will fare better...maybe varnish over the top. We used to have a screen printer varnish signs years ago for Home Depot...they wanted cheap and did not want to pay for lamination...

its gonna happen a lot. try using adhesive vinyl or tape. Burnish to ink and remove like you are waxing air....the bond of the adhesive vinel/take should be stronger than the bond of the ink to the belt then scrub with iso

waiting to laminate....ahh the myth. Yes if you are putting 350%+ worth of saturation on your material, you probably have to wait. Epson will tell you wait 4 years...If you are just printing wraps, look to the s40...it's the best 10K printer on the market...panel to panel is dead nuts. If you...

when you produce terrible laminators...this ultimately happens

Seal 62Pro has crowned rollers...work from the middle, you just want pressure set so rollers tough. Higher pressure does not help laminating it hurts. It will cause alignment at nip(where rollers touch) to be misaligned. You should be able to web the printer up with pressure sensitive film on...

definitely flag with reseller. I would make sure date is valid. Just to be safe, Id have them swap.

Sounds like you want this on a server so everyone can print to it like a desktop or an office copier? If so you are connecting to the wrong end of the train...you need to connect everyone to the printers rip which is usually on another PC. Your files have to go through a rip then to the printer.

Can we just a "DO NOT TAKE ORDERS FROM" post? I love the idea. Call out all of the scumbags. I have a few I can put on in that forum.

not sure what horror stories you are referring to, but it would help to know what type of materials you are primarily processing and how much space you will have...happy to offer suggestions but a bit lacking in your info

we wipe with alcohol then anti static spray first...

so many variables, what printer? media? what film laminate? looks like graphic is curling up...if so to much brake on top roll of lamination film. If its all warped( I cannot tell) speed / heat / nip issue

do you have the r2r for that machine? that's how I would run the magnet