Search results

if it seems like starvation (temporary), i've seen and done a "primer" line at the beginning of the print. this can be over a layer of tape or onto the table/flaw board portion.

i don't know. when speaking with one of the guys that designs CET printers on a tech call, i was replacing a filter and mentioned that i needed to match the UM specs for a filter. my filter said 60um and the ones on the printer were like 110um or something. the tech said, don't worry about...

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xuv+ink+filter.TRS0&_nkw=uv+ink+filter&_sacat=0

there's a utility (program) that runs separately for that if i remember right.

parting out my jv3 160sp if anyone needs a motor or board on the cheap. (heads have been sold)

the font doesn't work. it's too cute.

.030 polystryrene is my favorite material. score, break, and peel out the hole.

one time i had yellow dropping out on an old fj150 and i tore that machine apart trying to figure out how to fix it. lost a client it took so long. ended up being a piece of paper that had jammed itself into the piercing needle. got it out by reverse flushing the line with a syringe.

couple of suggestions. one test the theory on square foot. once i decided to hand drill a plenum for my cnc instead of have the cnc do it. i was convinced that i could do it just as fast and figured what the heck. about 1/6 of the way through i realized what I was attempting to do. it...

let's all thank mimaki, and for that matter, all of the OEM's for investing millions of dollars in the sensors, chips, and firmware that protect us from using our equipment as we see fit.

as an outlier, i suspect my business presence on the property increases the electricity about $50 a month. during my old partnership from two years ago we were around $20,000 (33,000 square foot building). now that i've embraced working plein air, i can't imagine going back.

especially filters... don't know how filters didn't come up in this discussion. or maybe it did.

when tuning my printer to the new custom inks, i was getting blow out. it would happen in about 10 or so inches. i believe most of me getting these inks to print right was made on the voltage side of things. i think i reduced my voltage drastically. from about 33 to 20's (h700 numbers). i...

those are awesome! i wonder when i'll want more and not know how to do it. automotive rotisseries are terribly suited for modification. this looks perfect. great link. this kind of stuff can get pricey without some DIY options...

got them at a military surplus yard years ago. were used to build fighter jets for the vietnam war. one is 7 x 14 (was used for wings) the other is 8 x 8 (was used for tail/vertical stabilizer. this one under the wood deck is a trapazoid?! i had them chopped and such to accept the table top.

those heads are extremely sensitive to viscosity. they need heavy ink. is it a new set of yellow inks? i have custom ink running in my printer which also has the same heads. try some drastic voltage changes to test the results. immediate drop out is usually "blow out". the waveform/voltage...

that's my havanese, Ziggy, on the table.

rotisserie tables.

maybe vacuum strength is a printer by printer basis. my old H700's vacuum strength is insane. the CET FK i used previously was tepid. i saw an Oce' xt (new) just recently, though very quiet compared to my H700, it wasn't very strong but it was decent. one thing to point out. vacuum...

i'd go hybrid. that's me. the vacuum strength (on mine) is triple what a true flatbed has. smaller plenum equals more grip? i like clunking the sheet into the stops, feeling it really lock in and "i'm square". other flatbeds have pins that pop up to register, mine didn't. maybe that's a...