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didn't say that. i've printed on a lot of veneer. white has some amazing advantages. such as wood has an opalescent reflection angle. unfortunately at that angle the image being transparent gets blown out. so an install in a corridor (constant side viewing) or a place with lots of light...

ha! that is because they can't print white. i've done a lot of graphics for wood veneer. bumping yellows and light greens, cyans, pinks... with 10% white can give you much much better results. otherwise the print is at the mercy of the wood tone... looks cheesy. aka...your kids face looks...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=reTOw-AMhdA ??? unfortunately it only takes up small space on a table.

companies like this highly oversell their "technology". they want to be considered an art studio more than a printer so they create terminologies. if they insist that the ink is fused to the wood, it is most likely a polyester dye sub coating (wood absorbs this kind of stuff). then the image...

one way is if you pulled a vacuum at the pump/waste side of the printer to clear a clog or help prime but do not then move the carriage to the side for a second, the vacuum will sustain itself and pull all of the ink through the printer. i'd suppose there may be other scenarios that might...

i'd bet a pump/drain tube is clogged. pull the magenta drain line from the waste bottle. have a partner pour solvent into the cap while you at the drain end pull a strong vacuum at the end of the drain line with a syringe. i'd usually use something stronger than cleaning solution for this...

ohhh, i did click the link. but, my franken-H700 has calmed down and is oddly now one of the better printers i've had in a long time.

i'd bet, even if the photographer got paid, he'd still be highly offended that his very serious photograph depicting the suffering of innocent people (genocide) was then converted into a fantasy graphic for a douchebag-mobile.

i might suggest you get a set of the super long mutoh cables instead of the very tight mimaki cables. the mimaki ones don't give any room to move check dampers and such.

constant printing can be a cable issue but it can also be a blown head (possibly channel on the slider board). you are a bit green with the printer tech stuff to be doing a data swap. but, if it were my printer, that's what i'd be doing. you can search the site for "data swap" to see many...

don't use any sponge based swabs with NMP. they are not solvent resistant enough and will melt quickly. test any method you choose. i have successfully purged ca4w heads with nmp by forcing the fluid through the head via the ink tube ahead of the last chance filter. that is your best bet...

1. the solvent NMP is the same solvent that is used in HP latex ink to bite the surface. it's used in cleaning styro-spray gun systems and also quickly breaks down cured powder coat. you'd think that it would damage the head but the two uv heads that i've used it in, it's done nothing but...

i've mentioned this before in previous threads. i once disassembled a 10,000 series epson head assembly (three dx4 heads). they had a nice little sticker on each one showing the epson head rank. the sticker seemed a little thick so then i peeled it off and directly under it was a roland...

for now, clean it up. get a bar of soap and scrap the soap into the belt's teeth and the gear running it about two to four times/applications. this will greatly reduce the friction at the teeth, buying you some time to figure out the alignment issue.

when you are really stuck with a head clog, the head conditioning fluids are not the right solvents. they melt ink. but if the ink is hardened, all you end up with is gum. use NMP to clean out a head that just won't clean up. NMP has saved so many "dead" heads for me. it disintegrates the...

i've for decades gone to the high end tool supply places and bought nice amana bits and such that cost $35 to $50 each. and i thought i was splurging. then i had this limac for a bit and we were putting onsrud bits on it (maybe $80-$125 each?). they were flying through the material like i've...

i'd bet that there's a lot of members on cnczone.com that are familiar with that router. as for the serial vs ethernet. just use it how it is. until you're slammed with cnc projects and want to start shaving minutes off of each set up, you shouldn't spend any big upgrade bucks. if i was to...

on most (maybe every) uv printer there are options to cure directly behind the head or on the way back after the ink has wetted out for a bit. there should be a utility that shows some sort of lamp curing order. sticky lamps will give off an odd rhythm. one direction will sound different than...

run it in unidirectional. see if you can isolate it by trying a few things. uv printers can produce a thing called "cure banding". where in printing bidirectional the printer will dose the ink stronger going left vs right. print a test swatch in unidirectional mode to see if it goes away...

i'd look at the heat. getting a reading on a resting head might not represent the temp' of the head halfway down the sheet. with an IR thermometer you can get real time temps off the side of the head and compare that to a resting temp'. if it's running cool mid sheet you'll have to over shoot...