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sorry but i etch and polish and print and cut and laminate and spray and stain and drill and pack cast and machine and hang every one of my pieces much to the dismay of my bank account.

i think most of us are too busy keeping up with orders to keep up with portfolios or photography for that matter. https://www.flickr.com/photos/alldredge/sets/72157627000489887/

why do i click on these threads!? i clinch my teeth, hope for something that just needs tweaking and instead a little part of me dies every time. how can this keep happening? i just don't get it! i live for design/art/fabrication. it's a disease. and now we, the designers, have to...

yeah. kent's cool. does his best to keep our aging printers going. smart guy.

between cheap customers that know exactly what they want vs "price is no object" but take forever to sign off on a project, i'll take the cheap one.

best advice for white ink is transfer it to a clear cartridge and move any ID chip. if you do that you can let your white ink cart sit for weeks. then when you want to use white, plug it in (or however Roland works) and tilt the clear cartridge back and forth however long is needed to get the...

I think it's: Layer > Object > Shadow > make it go the other way > enter

cross the lines. to prove it the issue is coming from above, or not, place a good channels ink/damper line onto the black manifold's nipple. if you get a clean test pattern then you have an air leak contaminating the black channel. or sometimes possible a bad bath of black ink. also, by...

a halo missing in the middle of the test pattern can sometimes be a clogged manifold. happened to me once.

i have a really nice one that i've been considering selling. has lots of blades and a new belt.

whatever it is, it has to stretch. thermal expansion and turning/torquing around is probably what broke the bond. VHB is a good option because it can stretch and is and active adhesive. i like to go with dual adhesives for some things too. one that is best for peel, one that is best for...

Optix DA (digital acrylic). the coating on this acrylic has some serious mojo for ink adhesion. you can get ink to stick to acrylic with some precise settings. but for really bullet proof stick go with the DA.

i read that you "changed" dampers. that is different than a damper swap. are you familiar with swapping dampers for diagnostic purposes (crossing lines with the dampers still connected?)

a shock from a head crash can cause electrical damage. i've seen this bent pattern come and go on a head. which, in my case, ruled against physical nozzle damage. this may be different in your case. but for me that bent pattern means that the heads are firing out of sequence.

side to side can be cables. usually with a loose cable it will be a rectangle the width of the head for 1-6 inches intermittently. when i had a lose cable, i'd get a black rectangle, just one in the middle of a big print. it took months for the cable to come lose enough to isolate because...

usually sporadic firing in one channel is the cable being lose or bad. i'd try inspecting it and reseating to start on the easy/cheap side. that said, loose cables will usually print a big rectangle of the offending channel. i've heard of an encoder strip doing this to one channel but that...

that "bent" pattern is always as sign, for me, that the head will never return. it's an electrical problem from what i've best figured. some jets are firing early.

i got by with a diy flatbed for years. never investing in a real one. because i "couldn't afford it". looking back, the tiniest flatbed would have been a huge blessing. it would have allowed me to develop product, do orders that were impossible otherwise, and get clients that i wouldn't...

my experience with a used CET bought by my partnership is: purchased working, shipped ok. then unfortunately sat in a crate for two months in texas heat. booted fine, cleaned the heads to perfect with NMP. but it never worked right. was a major cause of the demise of the partnership. just...

if you are on a limited budget a shopbot is the O-N-L-Y way to go. i have an ancient one (make of wood!) and it has cost me maybe $40 in 20 years to maintain. i have had to replace dodgy dell computers that don't like the moisture and dust that they are exposed to. but the control box full...