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i think you are going to have to change your username to just warlick. i'm stumped.

remember it's "northstate" you want them to remember not "signs". the emphasis needs to be either reversed or at least 50/50.

never done it. i've changed a lot of heads but never tried to do it perfectly. takes too much patience.

do you have all the service docs? i have two .rars that contain everything 1631. pm email address if needing.

no! no figuring it out. the icon is for the guy that is trying to remember your company name two weeks later and the left side of the brain says "uh.... wasn't there a compass thingy in the logo?" then the right brain says "n...north? NORTHSTATE!"

back to the question at hand. limac makes the beefiest, quickest, high quality cnc for the dollar. i wouldn't be surprised if in a decade they are the "roland" or "mimaki" of the cnc/sign industry. if you are on a serious budget you might consider a used loaded shopbot and go pick it up...

there's a basic thought experiment with iconography/logos etc. "if the logo or icon is shown to a lay person for three seconds, can that person roughly sketch that image a minute later?" logos are to be brain tattoos, not photoshop auditions. there's no time for showing off as your van...

this is a toss together. but maybe something along this line would better utilize the iconography of your business name.

the SW would possibly work. some straight urethanes do not play well on aluminum, some do. you would get better wetting from it than an expoxy. the best wetting would be from a lacquer. in fact, you might just head the hobby store and try the Testors...

also, how big are these to be. the lack of detail in these gives you quite a bit of options. a super low viscosity epoxy, very retarded and reduced black lacquer would be my options. the baking cystals look cool but would probably need more like .080 or so to create a decent trough.

it's like powder coat on crack! i'm gonna git me sum!!!!

how deep? depending on the look you have a few options. is the metal polished on the surface or requires polishing? if it requires polishing there will be a lot of black that comes from the polish by leaving this in the crevices, you will get an aged look with dark shadows. like this...

i worked really hard on getting a design contract (layman's terms) that would get my projects going from start to finish. i'd be glad to share it if anyone might want a starting point. each designer will require something slightly different. one thing i also changed was the 50% down. i now...

it's also okay to force a client to choose or fire that client and keep the design fees. for the last ten years, i did whatever i could to make my clients happy. what happened? i'd be into 6-10 revisions. these are extremely expensive pieces so there's a "feeling" that there's a budget for...

those site are a bit hard to decipher. from what i can tell it's due to two things. one, cultural? bigger site with zillions of pages is better than a site that really only needs four basic pages. but also if you keep up with the models, the OEMs design and build on the fly. a printer can...

in my experience, if you go to a local computer repair store, they will have a few cherry dells sitting around for $75 and will put xp, or win98, or whatever (as long as it's old) on it for free. i recently did a win7 to win98 downgrade on a pc. works great, except for the graphics are crap...

digi-print supplies seems to have the lowest price. http://www.digiprint-supplies.com/toshiba-ca4w.html

when pricing out a chinese flatbed years ago (went with a used CET that gave us fits). i was astounded at the affordability of the replacement parts. i sent an inquiry for a list of spare parts for the Ntek dx5 flatbed and the prices were like: $12, $44, $130, etc. my figure was "in that...

depending on the size of bevel, i've noticed that it can be lost or reduced to almost invisible. in that case, over exaggerate the bevel before flattening (increase size, bump up the opacity on the highlight). probably just a flaw in the software.

i know nothing of plotters (never used one ever). but we do make LOTS OF STENCILS at the studio. the best stencil material is polystyrene. i'd assume that .020 would go through a plotter just fine. any score will to. at that point the mark is very fragile and can be broken out after passing...