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No, this is normal that it drops a little (maybe 0.2-0.4 over a couple minutes). The pumps automatically turn on every 2 minutes from what I've counted. I've had the problem in the past where it was running for what seemed like every 30 seconds. If it's going under 18.5 it would run prematurely...

It looked like your Yellow reservoir was leaking from the side. Even though that particular printhead wasn't giving you the problem, the pressure in the line is shared and may manifest elsewhere, such as Magenta and Cyan printhead. It would be coincidental if both Magenta and Cyan, at the same...

I had the same problem —The threading had worn, probably from over-tightening. That's a good enough reason alone to change out the reservoir if connector cannot tighten. Our technician changed our reservoir both times, but seems easy enough to change by yourself. Shut machine down, close...

I had same idea of putting electrical tape around potential leaking reservoir.. didn't really help. When I opened it up the gasket was broken and that was the culprit. Another time the barb connector was worn and that was causing leaking. In the end, much easier and in the long-run cheaper to...

I'd 2nd the encoder, remembering back to when I had a Chinese printer, the encoder strip and encoder sensor would commonly cause problems and needed to be replaced a couple times over the years. The strip has to be perfectly positioned between the sensor and cannot make contact with either wall...

If he wasn't familiar with the printhead filter he most certainly won't know about the degasser. But yes, it's not necessary and can be removed —that was the first thing my technician did. I'd recommend getting a technician and watching what they do to better understand the machine. It's...

If it's happening mostly in dark colors and not the highlights, then that would suggest too much ink is being laid down and your lamps cannot cure fast enough. You've mentioned linearizing and profiling but what about your ink limits? When I've had gloss banding the culprit is almost always...

Printhead filters are these translucent disc as shown below. You need to take the carriage cover off to access them. If that doesn't fix it, change the ink filter as well. Could also be a leak in the ink subtank —I've had that happen to me with similar problem as yours.

Just a tip, if you need a bit more saturation, try adjusting rendering such that saturation is negative. Linearization and ink limits are more important steps and if your results are way off, I'd go back to the beginning. What are your global ink limits? Black point with pure and rich black...

I've never quite understood how "max ink" works in relation to "ink limit" setting from previous step. Any insights?

Just get an i1 or i1pro2. From my experience, they produce comparable results. I recently sold my 15+ year old Rev A i1 for under $100 so they can be very cheap. The i1pro2 is a bit smoother, reads faster and nicer to operate but otherwise just getting a used i1 will already elevate your...

CMYK values don't have much meaning without being defined by an ICC profile. I'm assuming you've embedded the same output profile for both. The most objective way is to simply measure the printed colors with a spectrophotometer. Plug the Lab values into a Delta-E calculator to see how...

We have a 460XT. We bought it used in 2018 and paid €65K including install, new printhead, Caldera RIP software, training, etc. We're quite happy with it. Maintenance can be expensive (namely printheads) but we've never spent over €10k/year on maintenance in the 3 years since we've had it...

I was under the impression, from Canon tech, that flush is basically depigmented ink and not really a cleaning agent, more intended to re-wet the heads.

In theory your assumption is correct. In practice, outside of technical field, DPI is just a marketing buzzword and often a misnomer used by consumers when they really mean PPI. If you're using too many dots per inch you might be "overcrowding" the printout, especially if your increase in DPI...

We use Dilite (3A Composites) with 257 inks and don't have any problem unless the liner has already been peeled from the edge and sat for an extended period of time. If I print on the backside, where there is text/logo on liner, it can sometimes leave "ghosting" marks which is visible especially...

This checks out. Right amount of teeth for your saw diameter, slight negative rake, modified triple chip grind. Play with blade RPM, cutting speed and cutting depth until you've got it locked in. Keep in mind, not all blades are the same, even if specs are same/similar. If it doesn't work out...

Also had good luck using Oce flatbed with 257 inks. Try to get the mat in white (not commonly produced). Use as low of an ink limit as possible —I had to flood white first and adhesion was lacking in the blacks, also surface of mat is meant to have grip and adding a bunch of ink lessen this.

I've never noticed a difference in output whether I used Stochastic or Adaptive Error Diffusion, so I just stick with Adaptive Error Diffusion (Using Caldera). I generally get better results switching rendering intent from Relative Colorimetric to Perceptual when gradients aren't printing...

I'm quite doubtful ink drop out is the problem. I printed a bunch of full sheets and couldn't duplicate the problem when I changed profiles, from fine art to quality. Also when ink reservoir is low it fills relatively fast, which would suggest ink is filling with no problem, unless there's...