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This was an acrylic sign that was damaged in shipping. Installed on a concrete wall til the replacement came. The picture is after removing all of the tape and silicone except for the bottom. Silicone would never adhere this well. The sign is 19" x 16", double-layered, so about 4.5 lbs. The...

Yeah, any sign shop that does fabrication or metal shop. Typically referred to as a pan panel, pan sign, etc. Looks a bit cleaner if you use aluminum angle for the returns rather than brake-forming them like they did there. Aluminum angle, mitered at the corners, attached with VHB tape or...

Preparation is definitely key. It's rare that I don't have everything with me that I need. I guess it depends on what kind of installs you're doing though, too.

The tape can hold up to the elements without issue, so that's not something I worry about when applying it. If I were to use 1" angle on each side of the 2" post as the OP mentioned, I would put four 2" lengths of VHB tape down each of the lengths of aluminum angle. I would do the same down...

Agreed, I would use aluminum.

Let's start over.

You may want to try uship.com

I was referring to the part where you said fasteners through the face was by far the most logical and safest method and that anything less jeopardizes the integrity. Not being argumentative, but that's simply not true. Signs are made without visible fasteners all of the time here and they hold...

Not sure how you figure that. Ever tried to remove a panel stuck to aluminum with VHB tape and silicone?

That's a good approach. If it were me, I would use 2" aluminum angle for your two 12" lengths. Then I would apply VHB tape to the portion of the post that will contact the ACM as well as to the two legs of the aluminum angle that will contact the ACM. A few beads of silicone for good measure and...

There's no such thing as overkill when installing signs...only underkill. Use VHB. Banner tape is for banners.

Looks like a rout-out show-through face. Likely aluminum with routed-out text then backed with acrylic with the red vinyl lettering. The red vinyl lettering is slightly smller leving the white acrylic border showing. It could be layered acrylic, but that's not too common.

Thank you very much, Fred.

Probably an easy one but outside of my realm of expertise. Anyone know what font this is?

Ah...Masking tape is masking tape and premask is premask. I was answering your question about MASKING tape lol

Gotchya. I like the Sherwin Williams tape. Even if the edges are damaged, it seems to stay in one piece. The 3M stuff rips like crazy if the edges aren't perfect.

I bet you're using the 3M stuff from Home Depot...? Try the Sherwin Williams tape.

It can be done either way - just depends on the spacing of the letters and the amount of material you'll wind up using. Sometimes it makes more sense to do it as individual letters and sometimes it makes more sense to do it as one piece. The most important thing is to fasten the letters so...

Not all VHB tapes are recommended for vinyl. Vinyl contains plasticizer which can negatively affect the adhesion of VHB tape. The only VHB tapes recommended for direct use on vinyl are: 4941, 4945 and 4991. Also, on tapes 4618, 4622 and 4624, the liner side of the tape is plasticizer resistant...

Yeah, I don't think it would be great for a print shop due to the abundance of tire kickers. But some of the other areas of the sign industry don't get as many of those kickers. In Dallas, we have a few trades (electrical, etc) that have really put their name out there, and it works as far as...