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There is an option in Flexi called, "Output Size Compensation." It prints out a square, you measure it, input the measurement value, and it adjusts all prints from that point on. Also just keep in mind that most roll to roll printers have an error due to the many factors that go into feeding...
You're more likely to find API support in a RIP instead of the printer itself. I believe I heard Onyx is the only RIP working on it at the moment.
Edit: Here's a link to Onyx's API page: https://onyxgfx.com/products/onyx-sync/
I have a feeling it's more complicated than it's worth and/or not doable. Probably the easiest way would be to set it up to run SS21 inks and then put SS21 chips on your DTF inks. But in that case you will probably get unexpected printing results since the firmware and parameters are setup for...
Here's a PDF with the JPG embedded in it so now it's vector right? Haha.
I'll give it to RapidTac though, that's a pretty good JPG and should print fine at full size. It's ~42"x23" at full resolution.
I can change dampers without flushing the system with very minimal ink spillage but I've also done 1000's. On your machine with the dual channel dampers, a lot of the time you can just do one line at a time and ink won't come flying out. I also use a piece of soft tubing with a knot tied in it...
I don't have any experience with that model but I do work on a lot of Mimakis. The value on you print feed adjustment is extremely high to me. It should be closer to the 10's rather than 100's. Now that could be because this machine handles the feed differently than I know but in most cases it...
Yeah something like Flexi or Onyx would definitely be a more robust option. Unfortunately I don't have a lot of experience with FIneCut on Macs. On PC's you have to install a driver and that takes care of separating the cutters by serial number. Most of my customers have dedicated setups for...
Yeah you don't need to spend big on mobos unless you need a special setup for dual GPUs or something. Probably unpopular opinion here but that CPU is pretty overkill for graphic design and cad work. Could save some money on the processor and get better monitor or something. 16 cores and 32...
The way the Mimaki driver works is it differentiates multiple plotters by their serial numbers. So when both plotters are powered on and connected to the computer, when you click the plotter setup button on the bottom left corner of the plot screen, the drop down menu for the communication...
Yup. Popped fuse on the main board. Get a couple fuses and try to find the reason it blew in the first place as it's likely it will pop again. Usually it's a bad cable but it could have been a power surge.
Mimaki calls it "Favorites." You setup everything how you want it to be and then save the settings as a favorite. It will make a hot folder that will automatically apply those settings when jobs are sent to it. Look up "Favorites" in the user manual for Rasterlink. It should have a section on it.
Did you also look at the Mimaki UCJV series to compare with the Roland UV? That would be more comparable.
I can tell you as a tech who's been around for a while, the CJV150 is one of those machines that has the kinks worked out and has proven itself as a decently reliable machine. You can't go...
There are definitely good and bad 3rd party cap tops. Not surprisingly, the ones that look most like the OEM ones work the best. That being said, the Xpertjets haven't been out for super long comparatively so there isn't a lot of experience with third party parts yet. I'm sure they're still...
It might be the "Preserve Illustrator Editing Capabilities" setting when saving. Tell them to check that option and see if it helps. When it's unchecked, it makes a more efficient file but less editable.
Have you tried throwing the American JV33 firmware on there? I've never tried it myself but it's worth a shot. The American version only supports SS21 and not the BS3.
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