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We call it a, "Loose nut behind the keyboard." I agree. Something has to be not setup properly or some setting is off. Is this the age old issue of plugging the HDMI cable into the integrated graphics port on the main board and not the graphics card maybe?

Check these guys out - https://www.image1impact.com/products-categories/media-racks/ I've used their stuff and it works well. Should at least give you an idea of your options. Also, just in case you don't know, you can store vinyl on it's side, you just don't want to store it on a flat surface...

That's a pretty common issue I've seen with the older JV33 and CJV30 models. I would change the cap top slider or just the whole station entirely. The slider is usually the culprit though. The pegs that slide back and forth wear out and cause the cap top not line up correctly and it always makes...

AndersHerp's next post will be, "Is there a windows driver for my printer?"

Yup, highest resolution file with properly set ink levels, slowest motor speed available, and perfect head alignments.

Trunk or treating is ruining the old trick or treating. People drive to a parking lot and do it there instead. It's easier to do but kills the magic.

Use the highest resolution color profile you have available, slow the motor speed down to the slowest speed (usually a setting in the rip), and make sure your head alignments are perfect. Or have procolorgraphics do it.

They're located in the ink supply box where most of the pumps in the machine are. They are black cylinder like parts and each channel has one for a total of 8. Looks like the picture below:

Anytime a single channel drops like that on this model I check the air pressure system to make sure it's within spec, and then run an air purge. If that doesn't do the trick, everything mentioned above sub tanks etc. That being said, I do see fairly often that people don't change the primary...

It's ok to manually fill the cap top with a syringe and cleaning solution if you need to get it done quick. As for the reason it's not filling, you might have an air lock in the tube. The solution isn't pumped and just uses gravity to fill the cap so if there is an air bubble in there, it can...

And now Fellers just closed shop here in Denver. I know Milano Digital here in town just picked up Arlon if that helps.

The big spring under the cap is M800864. I have some in stock surprisingly. They aren't on the site but if you email us, I can get you a quote. support@solventinkjet.com

Oh gotcha. The way most Rolands work is there is a sensor right behind the pinch rollers that gets tripped when the media ends and allows light in. When the sensor trips, it tells the machine that's where it needs to stop. So when you load a sheet it should roll it out until the sensor trips...

It's ONE thing I like abut Flexi ;)

If it were me I would bring it into illy, copy and paste in front, live trace and play around with the settings until it looks like I want, and then expand and clean up any stray points and use the remaining vector as the cut line. But I'm sure there's an easier way to do it these days. It's...

I agree. Seems to be an uphill battle always.

Does the BN20 have a sheet load option? Most printers I've worked on do so I wouldn't be surprised if it did. The sheet load option should measure exactly what print area is available and send that info to the RIP.

I'd get the original parameters from Mimaki and start from scratch. It sounds like the parameters are messed up. That error is related to a parameter mismatch of some sort and a lot of the time reverting back to the original ones will fix issues.

Make sure your Maintenance Parameter number 0 is set to 0. It sounds like the parameters may be conflicting. They both tell the machine what model it is so maybe one is overriding the other.

Any color profile that isn't made specifically for your printer and environment is going to have results like these. If you make a custom one on your machine, it's much easier to hit grays,