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Forward it out past the heating unit before printing, or attach it to the takeup first if that doesn't work.

I've had similar when customer put overprint on certain elements for some reason.

Dry. We did a graphic 20 feet wide 10 feet tall in 5 panels recently around -10c from a lift. I find it easy to work with, similar to how 40c or IJ35 is on a comfortable day. My biggest concern is tearing it when lifting so I do that very slowly. Haven't had any issues with the stuff yet.

Paninis perhaps?

Lowest we'll install is -20. We use Drytac Polar which is spec'd for minimum of -20, mostly window applications. Large jobs we try to postpone till spring if possible.

2923 is calendared, we use it as our everyday vinyl after switching from IJ35. If you're looking for an alternative to 180 and keeping it cast, we've used Avery 1105 and Arlon SLX without issue. Depending on the application of the skins, 40c might be a better alternative.

If it's below 50, we make sure to add a disclaimer that we cannot guarantee it will adhere properly. That being said, I installed our storefront windows at around -3c (26f) and they were up for 4 years without issue before we decided to change them out. I've only ever had 1 window perf install...

Butt joint instead of overlap seam. Or you can cut a strip of the laminate and use it as an edge sealer to smooth out the transition. But in my experience adhesives don't like textured laminates very much so to avoid that just butt it together.

Usually the ink cartridge sensor in the printer. We've had 2 replaced, pretty common issue on these.

Before we got our OKI, we were using Chemica Bestprint on our latex. Used Siser Easyweed for a while but they must have changed something because all of a sudden it didn't work as well and we had to switch.

We use 40c for stuff like this for the same concerns you have with 35 on windows. You may be able to use IJ-36 as well if it's such short term, we've used it for a week long event and it was great. Customer removed themselves after since it was so easy.

I cut 080 with a skill saw and round corner with jig. You just need decent blades and file the edges afterwards.

I just got an email advertising Fixxons UniStick that might be worth looking into. Claims to be designed for pretty much this application

Yea it's been a crapshoot, we can get a brand running just fine and then nothing but problems half way through the roll. We tried like 6 different ones. Also ContraVision Campaign didn't work for us, the Performance version works great.

We use ContraVision after problems with Ultraflex, Briteline and Clear Focus.

This has come up for us before and we were told that the supplier would not warranty the film (which was very important to the client) unless it was installed by someone specifically certified in security film installation.

I believe 3M recommends using acetone.

Are you looking for something like the Ricoh IM C8000? Or a larger production unit?

Yea we don't use our conveyor unless we're doing a ton of shrink wrapping, then we'll wheel it out, generally just use a heat gun. It's kind of satisfying to heat out all the wrinkles in shrink wrap.

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