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1 pass half way through, the other the whole way. I run my bits conventional cutting, which is having the tool move around the part counter-clockwise if your spindle spins clockwise. I have found that this works much better for metal, foam, plastics, etc. than climb cutting, which is what I...

Having operated both a hybrid (Anapurna m4f) and a flatbed (CET Q1000), I will say that there are benefits and downsides to both. Roll-to-roll is one obvious benefit of a hybrid versus the flatbed we have, since CET doesn't offer a roll-to-roll option. Since Jetrix does offer a R2R option, the...

Thanks, that's what I was thinking. I just wanted to make sure.

We are wanting to start making profiles for our printers, and I've been given the go-ahead to purchase an i1 Pro 2. Now, I'm trying to decide which one to get. We run our solvent printers with Flexi, and our UV printer with Caldera. The i1 Pro 2 is supported by both RIPs, but there are 3...

I don't have any tips for printing styrene on your HP, but as an alternate media, Synaps might be what you're looking for. It's available from Agfa/Pitman & RTape, and is billed as "a next generation synthetic print media". It's semi-rigid (similar to card stock), available in a few different...

I alternate between the two. Printing first is great for most things, but sometimes I'll cut first. Cutting first works better, though, if your cutting process could scratch completed prints, especially double-sided prints. But a router table, if set up and used properly, should not scratch the...

Bump! Am I the only one here running Caldera & i-cut?

Here's Dreamstime's policy: http://www.dreamstime.com/faq29-what-s-the-maximum-amount-of-copies-allowed Looks like you're not allowed more than 500k copies with the normal license, although other licenses are available for unlimited copies. CanStock's policy is similar...

Bump. Anyone using this or a similar setup?

We just got a new CET flatbed, and we went with Caldera for the RIP. Now, I'm trying to get Caldera and our Kongsberg iXL-24 to play nicely together. My problem is that the cut files from Caldera are not the correct orientation. I have to manually rotate everything 90 degrees counter clockwise...

Could you post a link to where I could purchase that stiff mat? or is it something special from Zund? I'm using a Kongsberg, but that shouldn't make a difference.:smile:

How do you guys who have a flatbed cutter (Kongsberg, Zund, Summa F, etc.) handle routing? Do you do anything to protect your underlay/belt, like a sacrificial mat or something? If so, what do you use? Or do you just route on the main underlay and replace it as needed?

I've never had cyan completely fail to cure, but I know it is the most sensitive of all the inks. Did you try cleaning the glass that the lamps shine through? Ink overspray could get on to it and diminish your cure power.

I stumbled across http://fontedge.matton.se/. It is the most powerful online font matching tool that I've found, even allowing you to break up script fonts. I don't know how it compares with the Find my Font software, but it is definitely better than WhatTheFont.

I use a 3mm upcut, 200 ipm @ 40k rpm, 2 pass for less cleanup. That gives about a 0.005" chipload. Vortex tool has a nice chipload chart that I use, here is a link.

I haven't ever done it on purpose, but occasionally, GSPlot will forget the registration mark settings and print 4 marks, each numbered. It tells you to align with the first mark, then hit enter, align with second, enter, and so on. It takes longer to align, but it may fix your cut.

Try printing targets at both ends or 4 corners. A few additional points of registration (especially at the opposite end) might take care of that. I know you can do that with Composer, but I'm not sure about Flexi.

So are the bands of gloss larger than the step size? For example, 4-pass on my Agfa gives a different sheen every 1/4", the same as the step size.

Is that one pass printing? I think what you're seeing might be a combination of chromatic banding (aka lawnmower banding) and gloss banding. The fix for chromatic banding, is printing with more passes, which comes out to slower printing. As far as gloss banding, I discovered with my Agfa, that...

Crank the vacuum all the way up and mask off as much of the bed as possible. I would cut out a special template on our Kongsberg flatbed cutter to mask off the bed. If I would not have access to a flatbed cutter, I would mask off the bed with transfer tape, print an outline of the box on to the...