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We have two dedicated RIP computers here, both with dual SSDs and maxed out RAM, etc. We print a lot of large files. We also have a NAS (actually 2) to hold our 5+ terrabytes of data securely and backed up. The RIP computers sit near the printers and no one touches them besides the two of us...

The cab is in the PVO Collection, but you're gonna have to draw the body yourself. At least it is just a bunch of rectangles, so it should be pretty simple with a tape measure.

This is usually an issue with something in the capping station or pumps.

It is a combo of what vinyl (and laminate) you have that makes the longevity; obviously cheaper vinyls and no laminate is going to lead to earlier failures. If you use 3M vinyls they have an MCS program and warranty/info on all vinyl combinations available with your printer/ink.

See prior threads below with same issue. What vinyl is this? laminate failure photos?

I have seen this exact failure multiple times on this website with Oracal 210 laminate. I'm sure a search will turn up the other threads. The laminate always appears "burned". I don't use Oracal, so I can't help you beyond that.

I've done some crazy cut stuff in the past. Go ahead and match the color with a color chart. Print the wrap & cut it, then laminate it and cut the laminate with 1/8" extra laminate around the previously cut sharp edges (add a rounded corner stroke for this 2nd cut line). It'll look great and...

Either option A or C. B is a waste of time, since A should have block-out gray adhesive already. A comes with a warranty, C doesn't.

Make sure your panels are tall enough, take a piece of tape and run in down the trailer side and then take it off and lay it on a table and measure it. Work all the ribs and leave all the rivets. They'll have to be dealt with individually to get all the vinyl to "flow" well from panel to panel...

If you quote it the same, it doesn't matter to you. I'd say it would depend on if they are a decent client or if this is their first interaction with you.

Go here. Textures.com Upscale with appropriate software to make it a decent resolution and hide the tiling as much as possible. A raster image is what you need, not a vector. I know I've made one already, but no idea where it is saved... I'll look around.

Charge full sheet price, or see if the supplier who sold you the sheets will give you a rebate on the remainder of the unused sheets they sold you. What? They wont?

I've never had success with face-printed clings. I always reverse print on the rear of clear decals.

We have a very similar customer (minor league team) and we use a vendor named Vincent Printing in TN. They do a great job and have good turnaround.

Looks like humidity coming through the wall. I bet you a FLIR camera would show you that there is no insulation in that wall if it is an exterior wall.

Wait, a customer of yours received a defective product, and now you want tell the customer of yours that they need to pay you more than your original quoted price? Why aren't they ordering them again - do they not need them anymore or did you anger them? Always treat all orders as one-time...

Check the material feed calibration. That is what I'm betting is the issues if it is doing it in separate passes (printing one pass white, then feeding it back in then printing the color inks).

A while back when knife-less tape first came out I remember seeing another type of tape called something like "cut on top tape" or something like that that allowed you to apply the tape, make your cut with a razor then remove the tape. We use a lot of knife-less tape, but our installers are...

A Gerber Edge and plotter is going to be he best bet for what you're looking for. However, the software takes a while to learn. But is does offer you the ability to print on demand and use the labels immediately after printing, for ice cream labels thermal printing like this you wouldn't need to...

That's a new one on me also, is it a Pierce truck? They still have their own weird proprietary fonts.