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LOL That's possible...but I won't be installing any wrap outside in those temps. Might as well be painting the vehicle graphics on at that point.
straight lines turn to wavy ones without masking tape and I hate using masking tape on wraps. I will consider it though...if they've changed the...
Really, so if your competition is getting $2,000 more for the same jobs ...you don't care what they are charging? How is that smart business?
Of course if they were charging $500 it wouldn't influence you...because you would already have paid attention to the 1st 2 bullet points in my comment...
I'm asked this VERY often. I almost ALWAYS say NO. Many say why not...it's money. But here's why.
If a company does any searching at all for wraps online in my area, they'll find me and get a quote. I've seen several other shops attempt and butcher a wrap job after I refused to install for...
Not sure why all the WOW's.
• Know your overhead and what you "NEED" to charge
• Know the value (quality) of your product
• Compare your prices to local competitors to see what prices customers will be getting quoted from your competitors.
I don't see why all the gasps.
People lie if...
They have "their own wrap lessons" because of the lack of air release adhesive. They also, don't officially say to wrap the "whole" car because that stuff is THICK. They have some REALLY nice stuff though and if you have the skills, you can make it work. I've got some black snake skin stuff from...
$2 a sft is only for flat surface installs for me. I bump it up depending on the year/make/model of the vehicle. Some pickups are easier than others of different years...contours and bumper styles etc. But Cargo Vans I pretty much have a standard price on due to simplicity and market pricing...
Well they fund the wrap using 3M's program, which requires an "endorsed Installer". Since you are not a 3M endorsed installer...that's what gives them the right....
BUT.....
It all depends on how they word it to your "potential customer".
Keep in mind...if they allude to the potential customer...
Sounds like you were "dicking around" with the non RS version. I hate that stuff...but I've found the RS version to be VERY slide-able before applying pressure.
As for 3M...I still use 180c "plain". I don't use the V3. Haven't notice a change either. I guess we just have different experiences...
In parts of those newer videos he uses pre-pigmented Avery Supreme with easy apply(air egress) RS(re-positionable) adhesive. Other parts that are printed are on Avery Supercast easy apply RS.
In earlier videos, he used to use 3M IJ180C, before he was paid by Avery and Mutoh in the training...
Couple things...like he said..could be residual adhesive left from lifting up, especially if you used primer. As for heating "zippers" or "wrinkles" out...you gotta use finesse and not pull the vinyl in any direction once heated, until it cools. And once heated, it softens...so you have to...
Look at this Beauty! One of my first jobs...black vinyl on van roof, scraped and banged up from drivers going through drive through's they shouldn't have.
NIGHTMARE. Leaning over the top, fingers rubbed raw ...we turn those down.
Wouldn't happen to be Guangzhou Bestwin Technology Co., Ltd. would it?
Just curious...they've been scouting the states looking for resellers.
Or MaxPlus?
Chemical cleaning could possible do something. But technically the vinyl doesn't hurt the paint. If the paint is already poorly attached to the metal...the vinyl could pull it away (happens on older van hood lips often) But it's not the vinyl that did it.
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