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I use this one about twice a month. I've used others, but this is by far the nicest one. The straight boom has some limitations...the articulating will get you into (and over) more areas.

You would need to do some math to determine the needed thickness, but you would have to start off with 1½" ($$$$$$$$) or possibly thicker ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) acrylic. From there, the only way I can think to achieve the curvature is to build some jigs (time/$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) and use a...

Your design shows squared off faces and backs, but it sounds like you're wanting 1" thick acrylic with convex faces and concave backs and the backs have the same curvature as the acrylic panel...?

If I'm understanding: The wall has an 18' radius and they want the letters to basically have curved fronts and backs to match the radius of the wall? If so, I bet they stop demanding uniform thickness once they see the price. An 18' radius is fairly large, can you not just stud-mount standard...

Just to clarify: Anyone in Texas can obtain an Electrical Sign Contractor License, however the person/business obtaining that license has to have a Master Sign Electrician willing to assign their license to them. They are allowed to assign their number to only one company, however he can...

My guess is you're using extruded acrylic rather than cast. You might want to try an LED with a wider cone as well.

I've always liked this one...

Thank you very much for the responses, I appreciate it. I'll get one ordered.

So I've seen it mentioned on here a couple of times and I believe it was all good things said about it. Are there other alternatives or is this 'the one' to get? Seems like it would get stuck to the back of the vinyl....no?

Blockout vinyl is solid white or black. So he has the white side showing but since it's blockout, it looks black at night even though the whole face is backlit.

I agree - the MK sign looks like polished stainless or similar - not acrylic (except for the text). 1" acrylic is heavy. An 18" x 24" would weigh a bit over 17 pounds...so if you go that route, you'll want to make sure you're hardware is sufficient. Gyford has plenty to choose from for your...

Whether or not it needs framing depends on the shape and the gauge of material you use for the back and the returns. Bends and brakes in the returns lend themselves to the structural strength. Depending on the shape of the cabinet, LEDs may be a better option. If you use lamps you'll need to...

I've estimated a ton of these. I've never manufactured them. I have never estimated them the way you drew it. It doesn't mean it won't work, but it's not how they were built where I used to work. It seems like that would be a really flimsy letter with only acrylic faces/backs to stiffen them up...

3.5" is pretty shallow for a dual-lit channel letter. Using 5" (5.3") coil gives you room on the front for the light from the LED's to spread out more. How much light bounces back depends on what kind of surface you're mounting the letters on. Glass, metal, brick, etc. are all going to reflect...

Man, that's awesome. Talk about going above and beyond for something that wasn't their problem. Pretty cool.

No, 5" coil is still fine but you'll need to put your white LED's closer together to avoid hot spots. You can use aluminum or ACM for your divider and locate it approximately 1½" from the back of the returns. That gives the front LED's 3½" to spread out their light and the back LED's 1½"...

Here's a crappy quickie drawing of what I was saying:

Clear Lexan backs with vinyl diffuser and red LED's for the reverse-lit. It shouldn't "bounce back" and mess with the white if that' what you're worried about.

Awesome. (he literally has corn rows) :smile:

I would call Godwin (Harlingen) or Walton (San Antonio).