I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes.
Click to Support Signs101 ...
they need to write on it, do they need to erase? (dry-erase lam) if not just print on matte vinyl and mount to cardboard or just print it on the vinyl and hang that on the wall (don't remove the release liner)
does the alum have to be 1/4" thick or can it be like .032 and mounted to something.
i would have to check with my supplier and see how thick we can go but it sounds like you need a metal photo or etched alum for this to with stand the outdoors.
we make military nameplates like this.
if i can't...
static cling is just a PITA no matter how you do it. for us silk screening is the best or uv printing. either way here is a little secret i use on the big cling posters. it's more material and a little more labor but you only have to do it once.
i print the art on regular vinyl then i cut a...
you can try with out it but the metallic help give more opacity. all depends on how critical the job/customer is. you might just have to run a some samples and see which are going to give you the result you are looking for.
no doubt the white and metallic take longer, that's why on larger runs...
i have felt with that on many occasions, not so much now because of the digital printers now but back in the old days a customer would get this really fancy great looking logo made and bring it to me to silk screen or hot stamp and i would tell them i can't do it "but i just paid $300 or more...
ok so i am not crazy...haha
like i said the scarey part is when they try to tell you that you are the problem......:banghead:
we charge for design time when it takes a while to fix the file. i will usually give the customer the option.
i tell them they paid someone to do this already and they...
not sure if this is just my issue or what but... seems more and more i keep getting files from customers that were designed by professional art/designing companies and i can't use them because of font issues or all they sent was an indesign file. i do have indesign now but i didn't always...
this is an on going discussion here. lam perf or not to lam perf???
i will agree you definitely don't want to use 210 you need a cast, optically clear lam. the only thing i can add is my own experiences. i have only done about 3-4 window perf applications and the only one i didn't have to re-do...
i will be there. flying in on the 22 at like 9:00pm. i want to check out a bunch of the free seminars / zones. the main thing i am interested in is color matching and getting all of our machines to print similar colors. also good to walk around and see the new technology.
i usually get stuff like this from bur-lane. they can make custom frames also.
www.bur-lane.com
or jrs company (i think they actually make the the frames)
we have ours set up with the metallic but we have the xc set up with white. not the best but it's ok for certain jobs. we also have the lej with white and gloss. the uv white is 100% better then the solvent white on the xc. yes we run all our rolands with versaworks
we have the xr 640 so far it's another good solid roland machine (we have 4 right now that we use) don't know much about the epson but we find the roland very user friendly as far as software, general use and repairs/maintenance. quality is good and we like the print cut option. maybe if you go...
we don't have one but have been looking at them because they have a location in hackensack, NJ which is about 20 min from our shop. they are having an open house in a couple of weeks so we are going to check it out.
well if you have seen my latest post i am having some issues printing on sintra. weird situation still haven't figured it out. here is the link if you are interested
http://www.signs101.com/forums/showthread.php?110694-roland-LEJ-printing-problem
so i was just wondering what everyone else is...
Ok
I tried some older material (different batch) to see if it's just bad material and still the same problem
I tried running foam cor and coroplast in between and no problems.
But I am noticing it is only showing in the gray area not the colored area.
Could this have something to do...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.