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I agree. A Roland with the heaters on will soften the vinyl so it can be cut just fine with the right blade. You don't need a dedicated cutter, especially for those quantities. Some people even struggle to cut thick material on a Summa S Class for various reasons. Big pressures aren't...

These guys are in the UK. I have cut thick motocross material on Roland printers for years using their blades. Once the pressure is dialled in the blades last for months. You'll need the MSK750F. Blades for vinyl cutters

Try contacting these guys in the UK. http://www.edwardmathias.com/summatseriesblades.html

So if I print CMKY 100/66/0/2 will I get the same colour as the next guy?

Why do you need to convert to CMYK? The CMYK values are irrelevant for accurate colour matching/production. The actual printed colour will depend on many different factors.

Set up feed tables front and back. 60 degree carbide blade. These blades are the best I've used...with a proper setup the blades last for months. Edward Mathias Home Page They are in the UK not sure if they ship to the States. Also cut slower and hotter. Heat will help as it softens the...

Can you put two perf cut lines on top of each other? Copy all the PerfCut paths then paste them on top. I know it works with CutContour...I ruined a few jobs this way :-)

Sorry not sure about perf cut, I never used it on my VersaCamm, but I know guys who run their versacamms without the cutting strip to produce die cut stickers. Set up the die cut line manually with small bridges so that the decals don't drop out, then pop them out afterwards.

Here's what I do. 1. Make a copy of the document. 2. Use the wand to grab the cutpaths only. 3. Paste them to a new top layer and lock the other layers containing artwork. 4. Grab the first say 20 cm of cutpaths and send to back. 5. Then grab the next 20cm of cutpaths and the first 20cm (the...

I stand corrected. Feed is what I meant.

Yep I agree, perform bidirectional correction.

Ok just a quick update... Had a tech here today and he ended up replacing the print head, dampers, cap top, as well as other consumables (felt, wiper, ink sponge etc). Problem was some kind of internal leak inside the print head. He said the membranes in there are pretty thin and can fail. So...

Morning! I have attached a test print. Does anyone know the cause of this? Thought it might be the cap top so I changed the cap top for a lightly used one I had lying around. I made sure the lines to the pump are clear, did a manual clean and a couple of medium cleans. It cleared up a little...

Thanks! I'll give that a try. Is your screen grab from winplot?

You can edit a compound path by double clicking into it (just like isolate group). Then you can use the select tool (v) to move each box around individually. You can also use the direct select tool on the image so you can fine tune the placement without releasing your clipping mask.

I print every day. I run all my long prints overnight and keep the day for short runs and odd jobs/reprints. Someone once said to me "if your printer isn't printing, it's costing you money". So keep those printers running. Your printer can print when you are installing or sleeping. I've toyed...

I'd probably do them in groups of 5. 3 landscape down one side and 2 portrait alongside them and repeat.

Must have :rolleyes:

Black printed at various % without any CMY will always look brown, not grey.

Have you looked at your foil order. On one of the Avery prints the black is missing in between the white lettering. My guess is that you are laying two hits of white then black over the top. Correct? The white lays down thick, so the surface becomes uneven. The head can't put enough pressure...