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pleeeeease start a new thread for this! i think there are very many on the board that want to keep up with your printer. the good the bad etc.

yeah. chris190 updated on the vinyl express thread.

i pay $115 and that's hardly every buying color. so $115 can't be the best deal.

first check the data cable to that head for ink, looseness, fraying. the possibility that it his dead is high. if the data cable looks fine, then do a data swap to make sure it's the head, not the carriage board.

i can't specifically help you but i do know that epson techs have a little program that converts those numbers. those same epson techs will admit that the rank numbers have almost no effect on print quality.

ditchmiester, have the oem film different parts of the machine for you. for instance, i have a printer i'm seriously looking at. i asked them film this, film that, print on some sintra in the film. etc. i ended up with a 10 minute demo. for $25k they will show you the guts in detail. if...

hey my girlfriend already isn't looking forward to me meeting all the smoking hot booth girls. one thing i really like about the chinese manufacturers is they design on the fly. japanese, amercian, and european oems design. then put the machine out. if something is glaringly wrong with the...

i have this new partnership that seems to be a go as of two days ago. since they are the ones with the cash, i will be "begging" to go. there is no way the trip will not pay for itself. i've been impressed recently with the sales staff of a few chinese oems as for their english skills. so...

thanks case for the heads up.

the shanghai monster sign expo is in july. i am hoping i can go. i'd suggest heading there and see what these machines look and sound and act like. http://www.apppexpo.com/ i think the era of bashing the chinese is in it's last chapter. the new chinese high end fighter plane is...

i'm not too familiar with the jv33. try this though is possible. have a partner press down on the carriage and up on the caps making a better seal then current. while that partner is doing that pull a vacuum from below the caps at the waste or pump line. immediately do a cleaning cycle to...

start with a damper swap. see if the yellow dampers flow to the adjacent channel/manifold. if they quit coming from a different channel, then you have a supply issue. if the yellow prints at the new channel, they you have a yellow head/damper issue. do that first and get back with us. btw...

the guy that bought the bemajet recently mentioned on this board. the printer showed up. confusing instructions (he was a newbie for large format). a pump line undescribed hanging off the pump (think it ended up being an auxiliary vacuum line).... anyway last time i heard from him, he said...

nope. sorry. at full strength is nasty. but watered down it's about as caustic as diet coke. around here everything we do is dangerous. the sodium hydroxide is the least of my concerns.

old paint. i never said "this is what you should use" i said "this is what i do" "you might try it" (paraphrased). i don't need to distract from something that i didn't say. honestly i have no idea about the actual application we are even discussing? i'm picturing a guy brings in a box...

that's a lot of caps! awesome! i think made it clear to dilute it in the same way that you are discussing differing measures of "hot-ness" of solvents. the sodium hydroxide being at about a 1:500 ratio. so no it will not peel the paint right off of a vehicle. but it will go after loose...

very true. i was being very general in my description. when etching aluminum. i test the wind direction and very carefully place the fan as to push the fumes away from the substrate. many times, i am off to the side of the fan. one odd thing i've noticed. this doesn't work in a "0" wind...

some added instructions and warnings: be cautious. when i need to get corrosion off of some metal or oxidization off of some substrate, i get a big bucket of water, then mix about a 1/4 cup of crystal drain opener. they don't dissolve right away. when you have the mixture just right, the water...

water with the slightest amount of crystal drain opener (of course use gloves and remember that it can eat your skin, lungs, and eyeballs...contains sodium hydroxide). but the solution attacks the oxidization and bites the surface below very nicely.

your post says that you can print white. if it's not opaque enough 2x print the white, let it dry, 2x one more time, let dry, then do the color file. simultaneous white printing isn't all it's cracked up to be. ...the image of the bus stop looks like a super easy project for a white/color ink...