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As reQ mentioned, I also have police units on the street with solvent printed and laminated decals that still look good four or five years later. It sounds like Stouse doesn't laminate their stuff. Go with what you know.. I think the difference between latex and solvent is the shops personal...

What? Die cut vinyl stock does not come laminated. No reason for it to be. But, reading the description of the product, it's on a silicone liner... hence my thought of migration to the vinyl from the liner.

Don't have a latex, but on some of my metallics I have to wipe the roll with alcohol as it goes through. Seems that there is some sort of 'print through' from the backer as it's stored on the log.

Dumb question... your client requested blockout. Does it have to be black? Couldn't you use an etched glass vinyl and allow some light in for them? It wouldn't put much, if any, additional stresses on the glass, you can't see through it and they get the bonus of some natural light.

I'd stand that pvc away from the window a few inches. Other than the pvc itself warping from the heat, the transmitted (and held) heat next to the glass can induce a crack as well. Get some breathing space.

That's what I always thought, too, Gino. But lately there have been paratransit buses running around here with marked rubber trim. I was thinking a primer to it as well, but haven't looked at one closely enough to see how it was done.

Yow... on fleabay new meat blades are $200+... and several companies are marketing the entire slicer for under $150... Maybe I'll buy a slicer and have a dual role for the blade :Big Laugh

Hmm... lathe... that's an interesting idea. I don't think a utility blade will work, though, since it'll have to dig deep. I wonder if a meat slicer blade would work.. mounted carefully, of course.

I'd be more worried about the paint bleeding through to the front and ruining the prints.

I'm trying to figure out what the dot matrix strips are for. Interesting machine.. but I think I can still cut a gear shape by hand faster and more accurate on a bandsaw with a pattern.

Handlettered. There are variations in the 'P' in paper. Easy enough to scan and replicate - even the missing letters if you know how to manipulate strokes.

Watching this post for opinions. I can't see why you would need to coat them. I would venture that Gemini coats them to protect them when shipping (didn't know Gemini gilded...). My only concern would be expansion/contraction over time of the letters themselves forcing the gild to crack...

That's weird. If it's happening on one item and not others, it's not the ink. Looks like oil contamination somehow in the material.

Never had a Graphtec, but just finished replacing the head on my T750 after 18 years of use. That alone should tell you how bulletproof these machines are. Personally, I prefer the T series if I'm doing small copy - drag knife can cut small, but tangential knocks it out of the park. Love my...

For what it's worth.. I have a 1204. I don't do much printing here so there are times that it will sit for a week before the next job comes through. Rarely have I had an issue with clogged nozzles. If it happens, a quick clean usually sets things straight. I might be playing roulette, but I have...

jf, PP board looks close, but the flutes aren't the same. Still... I'd like to look into that. Mike, haven't seen 'smooth' coroplast that thick locally. The thickest I've bought was 19mm, and the material thickness (flutes/surface) were nowhere near what this stuff is.

Ok, here we are. The material is, I think, an extruded styrene. Very thick but also "rough".. the surface isn't entirely smooth, but for the applied 3M DG3 material you would never see any variation. The extrusion itself seems somewhat crude. It is very rigid - I could barely flex it when I...

No, definitely plastic. I'll see if I can snap a photo today. They are right down the street from my shop.

That looks like 1.5" coraplast. I was sitting at a light with a barrier next to me and hmm... smooth surface, but corrugated plastic core. Looks a lot like 10mm coro, but much, much thicker (like, maybe .080 or heavier) gauge. And of course, the overall thickness. Have no idea what it's called...

Fiberglass, right? That's oxidation. You'll need to completely wash the boat very well, scrub it clean, then follow up with your alcohol treatment. Might take two, three or more applications of cleaner to remove all the oxidation. Or, send it to a detailer to have the entire hull compounded.