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Here's a toughy....I KNOW I have this one somewhere but can't ID it. This is all I have to go by. I think the T is supposed to have a bottom serif but it may be broke off.

Maybe try and use IJ35 instead of 35c if you want to use that type of vinyl.....although they are pretty similar, and 3M labels it as permanent adhesive. Maybe they need to rethink that designation. Really is best to use vinyls that are actual wall vinyls though.

I don't get the point of this....you get 2 seams then; the seam of 2 boards, then another vinyl seam 2" from that seam. You should be fine with the material butted up together as the only seam, provided you have a way to keep them from separating.

WOW I can't believe no one else experiences the smell, mainly 210 Gloss and Matte, and several intermediate colored vinyls. I've posted on here before about it. We refer to it as "hot dog-sh!t", as it smells like when you step on a lawn cigar on a hot summer day. It's bad out of the box, and...

This can happen whether it's cal or cast. Oracal seems to have changed many things, including the adhesive (horrible smelling - we've had to stop using their 210 series laminates and several vinyls). I don't know what happened to them but really close to done with all of their materials. Sucks...

Prep the wall with isopropyl alcohol and a non-paper, lint-free cloth. It will tack up the paint and vinyl will stick much better.

Correct, it is more than 1/16", but I don't get your point....no one mentioned 2mm. And yes, 1/16" is .0625", but since they don't MAKE a .0625" thick styrene, it would be .060 styrene.

Either the above mentioned flexface in a frame, or simply apply vinyl to the wall as a mural, using a concrete vinyl or what I've used before, a very high tack vinyl like Arlon DPF8000. You'll see the texture of the wall somewhat, but seams will not show and you only have one layer to contend...

He said it's 1/16" thick and you all are saying it's .030? or .040? MMMM....no, it would be .060 if it's 1/16" thick. Even grabbing a calculator would tell you that.

It just looks like the outline for cutting was printed, so it's not an actual contour line. Double check you have all contours as actual contours. You don't say what rip or software you're using....with Flexi, it doesn't matter the color, as long is it is a converted contour line.

Did you try searching Google? I know you're "Possibly" asking for a recommendation, but you know....some people don't start with the obvious solutions.....

Not gonna engage in political banter, but I can't wait for these signs to disappear. Although all the bumper stickers on cars will remain for a year or 2. At least we can identify the Commiefornia transplants with them.

Protects the vinyl and ink from scratches, and with most laminate, UV protection.

The pad will last you 6 months to a year, depending how much you use it. If you can't figure $30 in to your cost of goods for over a year.... You can also use strips of scrap vinyl to roll on to remove the dust, if you're just too cheap to buy the pads. We do that now and then.

If it's all about money, sure. Some of us take pride in our work. Anyone can pick up a sign and hand it to someone else for a check.

Well Flexi Prod. Mgr. has that feature, called Easy Weed (one click on the checkbox!) not sure about Cutting Master.

Yes, just tell your RIP to add the weed border. If not that, how hard is it to just draw a box? Your sign layout should have a border around it anyway. Or maybe I'm totally missing what you are asking.

https://www.fellers.com/fellers-shopping/cat/inks-and-supplies/sub/mutoh-parts-and-supplies/set/one-pass-dust-removal-rollers We have two of these, one is the smaller version. Indispensable.

C: (or whatever your hard drive letter is) , Program Files (x86)>SAi>SAi Production Suite>Jobs and Settings>FlexiJobs. There you will see each machine with it's own folder. Keep in mind only any jobs you have set to HOLD after print or cut will be there.

Order a sheet of brushed aluminum. Cut it down.