Search results

I've used it before and it works great...I'll try to attach a picture of a job I did with it. This is 3M brand.

There's always Alumalite or Alumacore. As far as the PVC goes, I wouldn't use 1/2" unsupported between posts but the 3/4" or 1" works very well. The edges are no more of a hassle than any other product, they just require a little sanding and primer. The only thing is that there is more of a...

What about PVC

So, are you dye sub printing the fabric and then manufacturing the garments? I understand the dye sub print process, I'm just not sure if you printed the garments or printed the fabric and then made the garments. What are those photo panels printed on and did you do anything else to get that...

RotisSemiSans

Yes, could you explain the process in a bit more detail, I'm not familiar with this.

Hi Doug! I certainly was wondering what's up with you these days...as far as setting up your PC for Gerber, the parallel port must be an ECP port in order for the Edge to work properly. If you have trouble and need help you can give me a call for moral support if you'd like.

Bill, I would agree with your thinking and would use the lags and shields. I would stick to 3/8" maximum as the 1/2" adds nothing more and is too large to use with bricks. Typically I like to place the shields in the mortar joints as they do not have as much strength in the bricks and the 1/2"...

I think it would depend a lot on exactly what the artwork looked like. Gerber Edge printing is most likely the best way.

I didn't find an exact match but Script MT is close

I once had a problem with magenta print heads failing repeatedly but then I got a firmware update, which I think cured the problem. Check to see if you are running the latest firmware. The only other suggestion I can offer is that whenever you install print heads or ink cartridges on HP Latex...

I am not an Onyx user but I need to know if it is possible to do a double ink print on a Mimaki JV3 with PosterShop v6.5. Thanks!

You're right...I'm sorry, I should have known better than to give you anything else to talk about.

If it were anything else, I might have agreed too however, it's Fred and he has very clearly outlined the circumstances of the issue so if you think it's a waste of time simply move on. If you think that it is educational for us to examine the problem and hear everyone's solution, then it is...

The script is Brody. The T is very close to Minion Pro Bold Display Condensed. The owne is Goudy Old Style. There are a number of name variations for each of those that would all work so check it out.

Key to what.....the collection of all the world's knowledge that only he processes?? I'll bid $101!

Gino, seriously, on a professional sign forum you have nothing better to say then complain about the service you got at your local burger joint.....and Fred actually chimed in on this.....unbelielveable?!!

I just arrived and I'm staying at the Tropicana until Saturday.

Here's a link to the suggestion that was offered before. I'm sure that these could serve as a guide and something similar could be made and adapted to your specific equipment. http://www.vanladder.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=37&Itemid=57

The regular process foils are not 100% opaque and process printing on reflective material will give you a reflective result so you should be fine with regular foils.