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I leave it plugged in, it wastes 12cc of ink in 48h (2000cc yearly) for cleaning and I never have to do head cleaning.

Probably the machine was broken and the seller waited until the heads got damage and never bothered repairing it again. You'll probably pay more for the repair than you paid for the printer.

You can check if it's ink starvation if you set a 1sec pause between scans. (you should be able to set this on the printer) The idea is to let the head go with it's normal speed but let it sit between passes.

I just love how people start to downthumb me when I say solvent is so much higher quality than HP latex. On the attached image you can compare the printed blue t-shirt graininess with the background's blue surface that is printed with an ----OFFSET---- printer and it's actually more grainy than...

There is no guarantee that any brand comes 100% problem free, just be prepared to give it back if it doesn't work perfectly, do not let technicians come up with excuses until you cannot cancel the deal. I have a mimaki cvj150, it's a great machine but the software is awful - both printer's...

You'll regret not buying a bigger machine in two months trust me. 54" will do the job. Any generic vinyl works as they are all made of PVC - there is no special layer on it. Lamination is the key for long outdoor durability, but even without lamination any outdoor decal will last 2 years minimum.

Just wait 24h before cutting, it'll not curl anymore.

Eco solvent will not resist more no matter what you do. Polyester needs sublimation ink to be permanent. Sublimation changes the color of the fabric itself just like if it was waved with colored thread. (you should probably outsource this one)

Thanks, I just read that bn20 has a fixed temp of 35 C so I guess this is a good starting point.

My Mimaki says that I should not lubricate ANYTHING on the machine ever. I also have a roland cutter-plotter cx24 that never saw any lubrication ever and it glides as smooth as f. sorry. ant it's probably ...15 y old? Lubrication is good but you need to wipe the rail clean, you should not see...

Acrylic is a very difficult material to cut. You should experiment with wood before trying to cut acrylic. Try 1/64 deep passes 1500rpm and go as fast as your machine can. If it works try 1/32"

Ok, that makes sense.

I'm new to laminates and did some experiments with Oraguard 200 and 210. 200 glossy curled up pretty bad with oracal 3164, 210 semi-matte is so-so, 200 matte does not curl whatsoever. Just my 2¢ Off: just for fun I printed full coverage rich black with mimaki ss21 ink and laminated immediately...

Why would you print on orange vinyl? If you do the math white vinyl+ink is cheaper than colored vinyl. In addition printing on vinyl that was meat to be cut only always has the risk of contaminated areas (fingerprint/handprints of workers etc.)

mimaki cjv150 with ss21 inks

I have a mimaki cjv150 107 and I cut 120" long (36" wide) pretty crowded designs, my error margin is less than 0.04 inches MAX (less than 1mm) I don't know what you guys are setting wrong but you should definitely go through the manual as 1/2 sounds like a brand new machine out of the box...

Buy original blades, if they are Roland branded make sure they're new. Change cutting strip. Use higher pressure.

Hi Deny, What type of material is the one you mentioned? Can you post a link? What are you gonna do with the printed fabric?

Is the color right compared to you monitor? If it was a temperature problem the color may change quite a bit when turning heating on, but it needs to be consistent now. Don't forget to slow down printing speed just to stay on the safe side for now, you can speed it up later