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As a supplier I get an email from FDC (our vinyl supplier) every other day apologizing for the cost increases and availability issues. They've been pretty good at preparing us for the issues. All of our printer manufacturers just raised parts pricing up by about 6% as well. Sign of the times...

Oh come on! At least send an uncompressed TIFF! Sorry I like to rag on JPEG users.

It's pretty rare to have a single channel go out electronically. Usually either the whole head stops firing or it fires erratically. Do a damper swap to confirm. Just swap damper positions and run a cleaning cycle to see if another color will fire in the channel. If another color can fire, it's...

You can try James McGill out of Paducah - 270-243-0599 We carry the heads in stock here in Denver. Your machine does take a DX4 head BTW.

Bump for anyone who missed it.

It's a wild guess but maybe the fan is toggled with a transistor that went bad and now is permanently on/open so the fan is always powered on?

That looks like deformed nozzles from head strikes to me. As MikePatterson said, it could be dragging on the swollen sponge but if not, probably new head.

I can get you Mutoh parts. the lever is $15 and would drop ship from Muoth directly. Shoot me a picture of the second part you're looking for and I'll see what I can find. Thanks!

Check fuse F13 on the main board for continuity. While flushing the head it's possible that you got solution on the electronics, or the circuit shorted out in another way such as a damaged cables etc. If that fuse pops, it prevents the head signal from reaching the head. It's possible the head...

It's a common issue with the CJV30 model after a while the cap slider tends to wear out and it doesn't make proper contact with the cap anymore so the right most channel drops out. Check out this cap and slider we have available. It should fix the issue.

Looks like a hell of a lot of work to build the gantry and get the thing setup. Could probably print and stick a wall vinyl project quicker and higher quality. The promotional video shows a lot of vertical banding.

Power the machine on while holding the Up, Right, and Down buttons at the same time. The machine will boot in service mode. Once it boots, scroll down through the menu until you find, "Check 8: Parameter" and hit enter. Then scroll down to, "Parameter2 : Update' and hit enter. Then scroll down...

I do have one in stock for overnight if needed. Thanks!

I may be wrong but I'm pretty sure those skateboard guys are all using dye sub. Get one of those Epson Eco Tank printers from JohnsonPlastics.com that they put dye sub ink in. That would be the perfect size for your application. As far as UV and latex goes, you can only really make a sticker, or...

Carriage would be the last thing I do just because it's very expensive and the least likely to be causing the issue in my opinion. Encoder or motor is much more likely although I have seen in one rare case that is was a main board. . The Cursor Roller Arms are the only bearings you can get...

You should be able to get a nice detailed print from most modern solvent printers. Did you try printing at the highest resolution, uni-directional, and slow motor speed? All of those things will improve detail.

It's always hard to tell. I'd say about 6' per channel. For each color (2 lines each) you will need 10 o-rings.

Anytime I have print/cut issues on an SP series, I run the encoder setup and calibration in service mode, and then the environmental match in user mode. That syncs the linear encoder and motor encoder so that the print/cut alignment can be done properly.

Looks like your bias and/or vertical alignment might be out of whack. Also, how does the nozzle check look?

It's fine although I prefer to just leave it capped without solution. It only takes one fluke siphon overnight and ink all over the floor to make you regret it. I would just leave it as you normally would when not using it. These machines can sit for a days and weeks on the cap and still be...