Search results

Sounds like a print "mirrored" then laminate then stick to acrylic. Add a white "blockout" vinyl with clear adhesive to the backside of that and trim off the edges.

Ditto on that here too. Might also consider what the customer expects to see from the other side. "Clear" adhesive will allow white to be seen from behind whereas other vinyls can be had with a "blockout" which is gray.

Just had a phone request for a "high resolution eps" of a logo we have on file. :banghead:

Our sales staff (party of 1) who is very well versed in the various substrates available, as well as, pricing is the first person customers come in contact with when entering the door. "I'd like to talk to a person about getting a sign made"....hmmm or "I'd like to talk to a designer about this...

Not sure I get this one. What's wrong with 48"? nearly all our stock is 4' x 8'. I understand that mounting a print to stock at 48" may be a little tight but not usually a problem. Unless of course the design includes stupid prepress marks whereby making it larger than 48". Just requires extra...

• not knowing the difference between raster and vector • cut ready vector vs. just vector • not knowing how/why fonts need to be converted • sending a pdf or eps that's really just a jpg called a pdf or eps • Hate all Adobe files but I can use them • flattened psd files that need changes made •...

That's what we did for a restaurant window.

maybe this one?

Couple of things. Our mimaki has two settings for the tension on the pinch rollers i.e. tight and not so tight. They all have to be set the same. There are 4 pinch rollers that can be adjusted laterally too in order to accommodate different widths of material. Also you can choose to use just...

Yep, that's my plan. I'll proof it as close to finished as possible with a stipulation that the size is approx. Thanks to all inputs.

Yes, we have a guy doing the onsite survey with our bucket truck. He only jots down the retainer size, flange, etc. For ordering the faces. I can't get him to understand why I need anything else.

Having a hard time as a designer explaining the necessary specs needed for panceface signs. "Retainer, flange, and/or rise" means nothing to the designer. We keep getting bitten when trying to size graphics for these panfaces that are on site. Graphics are always too big. All I need to know is...

Corel! Period!

Customer brings in file that is labeled as an eps. Turns out it's a raster image. He can't understand why he will be charged an art fee to cut it. I explain it's a raster file and we would have to vectorize it first. It's a group of stars at various sizes. He tells me that he designed it in...

As described in an earlier post. You need lines instead of "squares".

photos such as the "yellow" one are easier to work with. We don't use templates for the simple fact that they are way too generic. Nor do we use "angled" shots. Trace the basic shape as a clipping mask. I also like to mimic any highlights and/or shadows as a transparent overlay. Any sections...

We use a "wall vinyl" for such surfaces. Although we haven't tried it on this type it works well on stucco, brick and drywall. Print & laminate, apply as usual then apply heat to it using a heat gun attached to a pressing roller. 3M IJ 8624 w/ 8524 laminate (yes, must be laminated)

SerpentineDBol or some form of

No realtree (copyright) but lots of similar patterns. We've purchased some from them. AuroraGraphics

Yes, that's what we usually do. We start with a good base profile, clone it and name it what we want then tweak from there. We got it now. Have to use a much lower heat which makes for slow prints though. Good thing we only print on this substrate a few times a year. Wasted about 10ft of...