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They are both DX7 print heads so it should work. Can't 100% guarantee though as Epson and Mutoh have been tricky in the past when it comes to heads that should be the same but are slightly altered to throw a wrench in things.

Yes we use a tapered syringe to pull ink into dampers. If you change all of the dampers, you can just run a strong cleaning and it should ink them all up as well. The o-ring comes with the damper if you get them from us!

The damper will probably do the trick. Make sure you change the o-ring between the ink line and damper to rule out any leaks. When you pull the ink through the damper, it should stay in the line if everything is working properly.

45 will do fine for most but 60 is better for the glitter and flock style materials which are thicker.

HTV is more rubbery and is thicker in most cases. If your cut settings are set properly and have a good blade, HTV should be easier to weed than vinyl in my experience.

Make sure the offset setting for your blade is set correctly. It's a specific value related to the blade angle. If it's not on the packaging, you could probably find the value on Google. If the offset isn't set properly, circles won't complete 100% and corners might not cut 100% which makes they...

If you are using Window Vista or newer, you can use any Ethernet cable you want to directly connect to the printer. This is just to test it out. If the printer starts printing fine when connected directly, your router is probably just toast.

Have you tried connecting the printer directly to the computer? Maybe your router is bad.

Changing the fuse only puts a new fuse in there to blow again if you don't figure out what's blowing it in the first place. Check your head cables and CR cables to make sure they are plugged in properly and not dirty/damaged.

Replace the magenta damper and probably all of them while your in there. Over time the ability of the damper to keep ink flowing to the head weakens and you get drop out like this.

It differs for everyone and the rule of thumb is as hot as possible without the media buckling. Generally I am in the mid to high 30's for pre and platen and 50 for post.

Is there ink in the ink lines? If not, your maintenance station probably is not working 100%. If there is ink in the lines and still no nozzle check, the fuse may have popped on the main or CR board. Check the ink lines and let us know.

You most likely won't be able to connect to the board to retrieve the parameters anyway. At the end of the day, it's not a lot of work to start with a new board from scratch so don't worry about it. Getting the parameters off the old board and putting them on the new one is more of a convenience...

I don't work on Epsons very much but if I had to guess I'd lean towards a processing failure. Either on the RIP end when it was ripping and got corrupted somehow or the processor on the printer glitched and corrupted the data. What happened when you tried to start printing again? Did it go away?

My other email is @signagespecialist.com. The amount of times I've had to spell Signage to people in the Signage industry is worrying.

WIX is easy to use and it's about $20 per month.

All naming your company something like, Xtreeem Grafix, does is make giving your email out over the phone harder.

Here in the US you'd get around $2.5k - $3k for a perfectly working SP300. With one failing head drop it about $1000.

Wet install with air egress vinyl is a no no. The water gets trapped as you have now seen.

Solution should only come out of the nozzles of the channel you're flushing. If it comes out of anywhere other than the nozzles, something broke inside.