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There are a bunch of fake sites selling parts out of Indonesia and this is one of them. If you search Signs101 you will find a few posts of people who have been burned by deals like this. I have them in stock here in the US if you're interested.

Set the cleaning mode to 8 - 12 hours and the tube wash to 48 hours. This setup will basically clean the print head 2 - 3 times per day when you aren't using the machine and 1 - 2 times per day when you do use it. Then every 2 days it will flush a little solution through the pump to keep it from...

You're right. I keep mixing this model up with another one. I would suspect your water heater isn't heating up properly. Probably a bad heating element. The printer doesn't seem to have a timeout function so if it never reaches the proper temp, it just tries and tries forever.

In local mode, push the enter key. It should show the ink type.

The coolant is for the LED lamps not the head but it's good you checked it just in case. The only thing I can think of is the room temperature is so cold that the head can't heat up to the proper temp, unlikely this time of year, or the head heater is just failing to heat up properly. You only...

Mimaki will give you 2 more months after they expire. If you still haven't used them by then, you might just invest in some chips. I haven't heard of anyone resetting the date on the 150 series but usually you just have to take out the battery on the main board and pop it back in. That...

Dye sub inks blow heads much faster than solvent. 3 months is still a very short time for them to fail though. What ink brand are you using? Your tech is correct that if you flush solution through one channel and it comes out the other, the membrane is broken. That could be from the ink...

If a solvent printer could damage a head on another machine from across the room, most of us in this forum would already be dead.

You can try to find someone to fix the board. I've seen a couple people offering the service. A google search might bring up some options.

I don't see that error in the tech manual. My best guess is the machine tried to do an auto cleaning while you were gone and the station board fried. Without any info on the error though I can't get much more detailed than that. Edit: Just realized I wasn't looking at the MK2 version manual...

That's an electrical failure. Check the head cables for ink splatter or damage and replace if needed. It could be as simple as a short caused by ink splatter or it could be a fried head or board.

Does postscript require a license? I'd imagine that would be a major hurdle for a free program if it does.

Signs the cap top needs to be changed: - You come in every morning and are missing a lot of nozzles - 1 or 2 normal cleaning cycles doesn't recover nozzles - The waste tank doesn't fill up as often as it used to - Cartridges are reading empty when there is still ink in them - It's been a year...

Most RIPs default to handling vector and bitmap differently. Go through your RIP and look for a setting called, Rendering Intent. Change the bitmap setting to match the vector setting and that should do the trick.

So you're only at about 700 million shots which is low. It doesn't rule out the head unfortunately. It may be one of those unlucky situations where it just fried early due to a manufacturing defect, electrical surge, bad ink, bad cables etc. It could be a bunch of things. Also, I don't want to...

Over spray like that is almost always an electrical/head issue. The head is capable of printing multiple sized dots. When it prints the nozzle check, it prints the biggest one possible which is also the easiest for the print head to print. Most of the time when printing however, it's going to...

It's a cost of doing business that is reflected in our prices already. If you want to pay for a $30k printer with a card though, we have to charge a fee if we don't want to lose our hat.

I agree with Jim. It looks like an electrical issue. I would make sure the encoder is clean as well as sometimes it can look like an electrical issue when it's just a dirty encoder. If it's clean and still looks like that, you could have a bad cables or board somewhere in the machine.

Although it doesn't look like typical drop out, I would start with changing out the dampers especially if they haven't been changed out in the last 12 to 24 months. The nozzle check looks fine other than a few deflecting nozzles in the black but that shouldn't affect the print too much. Also...

I agree! Anytime someone is selling something for less than half of what everyone else is selling it, it's either stolen or a scam. And believe me, scammers are always trying to steal print heads from us to, I can only assume, resell at a much lower price.