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Where did you connect, before dampers, after dampers, after cap, after pump? There are two lines on the bottom of the capping station that go into the pump. If you syringe from here and get a good vacuum, then probably your seal is good. If you have air in the ink lines after being filled...

The RIP should always override the printer, if the RIP driver is correct.

Sounds like the RIP driver.

Is there ink in the lines? Ink in the dampers? Can you pull a vacuum with a syringe at the bottom of the cap? Is the head seated properly against the cap? Does the pump run?

Hard to tell, but it looks like chromatic. Sometime (depending on media, environment) higher temperatures can help. Also important that Bi-direction alignments are good.

Great! You are welcome.

Sounds like chromatic banding. Ink is layed down in different order during each pass of Bi-directional printing. I.e. from right to left it may be KCMY But from left to right it will be YMCK. Printing Uni-directional will solve this issue. Raising or lower the heater settings can help as...

Typically this is head cables, cr cables, print head or motherboard. If it prints and then errors, sounds more like the head. Make sure you have clean power going to the printer. I would recheck all the cables, also check the home sensor, encoder strip, memory.

Assuming this print is upside down. Looks like it could be dampers - in starvation. You will need a custom profile to use only M or Lm. Ink dropping on the media, could be due to air leak or bad head. But is almost always a hair or thread on or around the head. These should look like...

What is the exact error?

The head being out of position will not cause magenta to fire continously. That is usually caused by damaged head, or head cables. Can also be the head driver board.

The heater issue may be a thermocouple or heater. Either could be separated from the platen and giving a false reading to the motherboard. Magenta issue could be bad head or head cable.

What does the internal test print look like? Are your nozzle checks the correct color?

Different media? Different backing on the media? Feed system? Take-up system? Adjust set in RIP overriding the machine? Most likely something changed.

Probably color management. Rendering intents, etc What do your nozzle checks and printer internal test prints look like?

Picture and or drawings may help. Also you will need a manual and do the alignments, or have a tech do them. Not sure what you mean about the bad dist adjust.

Assuming that these pictures are turned 90 degrees from printing. Almost certainly something on the head. You can see how it drags through in opposite direction on each pass. Probably oversaturated in those areas as well.

Curious, as to why you believe this head, I assume it is one head, is aftermarket? Usually the head rank sticker is removed (you can't see it when the head is in the carriage) to enter the head rank through the front panel. In the 'old days' people would just print out the Parameters sheet...

Misdirected nozzles can be from a number of things. Most likely is ink dried at the nozzle opening. The other is damage. In a perfect nozzle, ink is squeezed out by applying a voltage to a piezo in the head. This voltage 'curve' uses the head ranks to create the optimal drop at the...

Ink jet printing is fundamentally about the control and evaporation of solvent. Doesnt matter if the solvent is water or hexane. The heaters are on solvent printers to evaporate the solvent and control dot gain. How large the droplet spreds on a particular media. When the droplet expands...