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need to get marketing materials (portfolios, chip samples of different printing techniques). get those to maybe two more reps in completely different cities (dallas, and somewhere else drivable for delivery from houston). i've been doing way too many projects being done that i'd rather pass...

Absolutely if you are vacuum forming. Go with a reverse application of the silver. I also remember reading about a silver nanoink ised in the auto industry that has platelettes that lay down like a mirror but have to be painted on the back side if clear substrates

couple other diagnostic things you can do. first to insure that both sides of your pumps are working properly do a pump tube swap. just cross the lines so the black side of the pump is pumping magenta and vice versa. if you suddenly can't pump magenta and black flows...yada yada... also as...

busiest time of year for high end interior signs. so many building projects get arbitrary "finish dates" for the year. and then usually a big grand opening/christmas party is planned for the new space.

the sherwin william stock #: R6 K 25 for butyl cellosolve R6 K 28 for butyl carbitol i use butyl cellosolve to acetone about 6:1 also this is a recipe i saw on the jv3 yahoo board 3 parts butyl cellosolve 1 part butyl carbitol 2 parts acetone."

@genericname the 30gig solid state is a dedicated scratch (no files at all on the drive). it's set as the #1 primary. if i open up a file that is large (massive) i'll get the scratch disk warning for that disk before even doing a single action. of course working on 9 gig files and such i...

??? any constructive suggestions on how to get photoshop to manage my scratch disk (30 gig solid state + 300 sata) would be very helpful.

i don't think it's very stable still. on files in the 6-11 gig range, it says that my scratch disk is full before i've even done a single thing to the file. and after closing will not relinquish the scratch disk space unless closing down. (photoshop cs5 64bit, win7 ultimate 64bit). and...

the logos are vacuum metalized. i had a talk with the company that does it way back when developing a new product.

if contacting sherwin williams, you'll need to make sure they have an industrial supply (the material that cabinet makers use, cab and precat lacquer, etc). call before heading out. it's not at all uncommon.

the clear said it was a two part "solvent based"... i'd do some testing for sure.

i'm a sp owner. but i'd figure it doesn't matter. both sides will pull when isolated at the menu.

surely you don't me rustoleum out of a rattle can??? this guy is way over his head if so. he'll need to seal the cement first, apply the graphic and then use a two part system. why is so much time and energy dedicated in the graphics industry to douche-ing up stuff?

that dead line would be for a four head machine. i'd take the tube out of it and save it somewhere. you might in a year or so want to use it as a replacement in one of the other pumps sides if the vacuum gets weak.

one tip. pull the harness of waste bottle tubes out of the main hole in the printer. feed them individually to three separate holes drilled onto the outside of the waste bottle. at any time, you can pull an individual tube to see if you are getting flow, or set a syringe at the end to pull...

well, that side to side is not a rare issue. i've had it happen to two different printers. one time it was a loose ribbon. the other ink dripped onto the ribbon and followed the ribbon down into the print head frying my entire printer (of course i was stupidly changing a printhead and forgot...

that type of behavior is data corruption. it can be caused by a loose data cable (loose cable is usually little stripes similar to what you are seeing intermittently throughout the print), bad head, ink in your printhead's data port, on your print head's board, burnt data cables. be very...

before you take off any dampers. just cross the cyan lines. left to right/right to left. this is called a damper swap. after doing this, run maybe a normal and then a soft clean. if the issue stays at the same side of the head, your dampers are not to blame. if it follows the damper than...

make sure the cap is sitting straight. also put off the cap top and clean underneath it. a pattern like that can be a cap not making good contact. was there any build up on the bottom of the head?

before you chunk the head. look inside the ribbon/slot. see if there's dried ink inside.