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scan a piece of brushed metal. that way you can get a clean couple of gigs.

i think the whole approach should be scrapped. the design just doesn't say country club. it should be clean and simple...like a brain tattoo. no gradients, no bevels, no outlines, no obliques, no intersections. google/image: golf course logo, country club logo, hotel logo. you will see...

all this discussion about ink is true. but the problem seems to have been isolated to the port on the slider board (or possibly before that).

also, is your shop abnormally cold because of winter? if it's all colors, i doubt it's a damper or a clog. universal ink starvation is always the ink (not necessarily just the manufacturer but the conditions too). print larges sections of each color at full speed and jack the levels up on...

i wouldn't use the distressed look. to me it says. "buy my signs! and they will fade and peel just like this." if you are rebranding, rebrand toward doing large corporate projects... that is where the money is.

the sp can print cmyklmlc ww (white printing silmutaneously with color) or double cmyk (very fast). i do a lot of white and clear, but never silmutaneously. i'd say get the sp if you need speed (a bit more expensive used). and just do the s if you need rock bottom priced used equipment. from...

i've heard you can pull the carts out over night without issue. i haven't done it. i too had the ink drain issue. it's caused by and continuous connection between the bottom of the head and fluid all the way to the bottom of the drain line. theoretically if you don't have swollen sponges in...

air in your lines won't cause that kind of print issue. that would be a separate thing to fix. as far as cap tops, you can swap them around to different positions to see if you get better vacuum on those lines. but i'd start a whole new thread on the air in your lines if you are familiar with...

from what i gather from many detailed discussions on this board. the mimaki doesn't react much to correct vs/ wrong head rank numbers. i'd do some reading/searching on this board under "head rank". you might decide to ignore this as a possible half cure.

if you are having slightly better results after booting the printer down, remember to switch off on the back, unplug, then press the front "on" button four times slowly. this will discharge the capacitors on your board. many roland models have static build up issues. also, recently i saw a...

looks like you've already isolated it to the slider board. maybe do the data swap just one more time. if the issue follows the slider board port than you're done looking. those boards can be rebuilt for $200 (diagnosed for much less).

awesome... what did we learn from this video? don't race vw beetles... do race 911's. (did you see the one beetle convertible with passengers...? that was a suicide mission. i can only assume they were on drugs.)

the cheapest i've seen is $450 a piece for a quantity of 5 coming from china. i still think in the next few years these print heads will be about $250 a piece. dx2 was expensive back in the day. now it's $150ish. just give it time. until then it'd be nice if a group of buyers in the US...

custody wash (in the menu).

get on tedtalks and search the designers there. you should be picking out the designer, not someone else.

it's nice but i'd like to see a little less symmetry. like the red bull circle could launch across the hood 1/3 of the way. modern...good. but predictable. also the dc and rockstar branding is too small. clients are in love with the brand, not the car. make the car scream the brand not...

well each printer has it's own different fittings. these are compression fittings. so, the moment it seems to just be free spinning you then have to forcefully pull the tube away from the union or whatever it's plugged into. just like taking off a damper. and yes. get some fluid to the...

if it's a fitting, there's no danger of taking that a part. the only danger is letting yellow continue to sit in that head further complicating your repair. start taking that machine apart. but before that, do a head soak on the yellow so you don't have other issues.

have you determined that you have easy flow from your yellow line. i wouldn't start in on the pump side before you know that you've got no issues with supply. also, just swap a damper position. (put the yellow damper/line on a spot that is flowing fine and put the removed damper/line in the...

what's the temperature in the print area. also do a test print and when you see the print really lightening up hit "remote" pause the printer for a minute. mark exactly the paused point on your media. let the pumps do there normal phase that they do during pause and then unpause. let it...