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one other thing. to determine if you've got bad vacuum to the yellow. you can do pump tube swaps.

that does look like starvation. first determine which color it is. print large sections of c m y and k separately. see if some are banded and some very solid. do the test blocks in unidirectional only to eliminate lawn mower based artifacts. after that there's lots of experience on...

if clogged, you first have to determine if its pumps or supply. first get a syringe hooked up to the pump line that prints yellow. pull the carriage to the side, away from the capping station, and pull a strong vacuum on that pump line. do you feel resistance. there should be none at all...

thanks, and as far as your pic. as long as the bad patterns are moving around differently, the head's still cleanable. when that pattern never changes, that is when you've really got a problem.

i've put as strong as 1:1 acetone/butyl cellosolve in a head attempting to get a diverted nozzle clean and the head was none the wiser (and btw. the head clog did not come out with that mix. so if you think dropping a "safe" chemical h-bomb inside a head is your answer...not always). inks...

it's not uncommon for tests to make the head worse. if you have a big piece of crud in your head the cleaning cycles can simply just be pulling/jamming the clog in worse. looks like you'll at least need to do a head soak. also, you can fill a damper with cleaning fluid. put a nail or...

seems like everything possible has been mentioned. but i'd go at completely turning off the printer (front button, back switch, unplug, tap front button four times). saw an sp300 a while back that had a built up charge in the machine causing it to print similarly. data cable ribbon-wise...

i'm on it! i'll mount it where the paper cutter/IR media reader used to be. tore that off today. it's the cause of about 75% of my "head strikes" on veneer.

@wood i did see the "fast printing" in the rip (speeds up carriage). but it was unchecked. guess i was looking back on the old encad days when head carriage speed was adjustable from 1-10. as for "during printing" adjustments, i guess everyone's aware that you can do media compensation...

i'll check that out. i think scan deals with if the head makes full passes or short passes where possible. here's something that i'm sure all you mimaki guys will say "duh". my white had a little deflected nozzle printing. so i hit the remote button to pause it to see if the banding was bad...

thanks... from what i can see, it's not on the menu. i have the original manual and doesn't show up in the function diagram/tree thing. unless i'm blind. and i admit to not be too good at spotting things. as far a model #, the 160 sp is the four head jv3. (the jv3 160s has the three heads)

is there a set up function that allows carriage/scan speed? i'm laying down double thick white ink with the density bumped and having mild ink starvation from the load. i could go to three passes but i just think letting the printer go a bit slower would be the trick. thanks ahead of time...

from an engineering standpoint having the head race back and forth is much harder to mechanically do including the wear and tear on the machine, noise, etc. and with a head the length of the scan, the heads could be much lower performance than current heads. slower firing, cheaper...

send a pic. one note. i once had little rectangles being printed spontaneously here and there on my substrates. it was a loose black data cable.

i'd love to have one. i print on mainly flat media (right now running white ink layers on 4x8's of finished mahogany). snore... i'd be in bed and done with a printer like that. instead i'll be up all night waiting 20 minutes a piece for these sheets.

happened to me all colors disappeared in about an hour or so. from what i can remember, i was working on the printer. did a head soak, i've installed t-valves in the back of my printer for quick servicing, etc (they were turned to the off position). ...turned off the printer from the back...

i remember some kind of gantry printer from japan and also the "painting machine" that pulled paint directly from soup cans with a wire (called a wirejet) and blew the paint off the wire with air. i almost bought one of those. still wish i did.

saw this video years ago. it disappeared. well it's back and evidently memjet is up and running. won't be long before this is the standard. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6TzsL63BHuU http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jd6mHVerWTc&feature=player_embedded#!

i don't do vinyl, but with my work corners/edges curling is caused by the material either shrinking after mounting or being over stretched during lamination which would cause it to attempt to return to it's original size. the discussion with too heavy coverage might possibly be a secondary...

carefully read the install pdf th at comes with the firewire install cd. methodically do both installs described in the instructions.