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depends, i'm usually printing on a fresh coat of gloss cab lacquer. but generally speaking, bone dry ink (of course i'm speaking for metal and wood veneer that doesn't compress) doesn't show tracks.

yeah, send it through twice.... most my pieces require four passes sometimes five if i'm showing off. you'll need standardized guides. i have for feed, two small nails that i seat in the vent holes of the platen (they have long mini-flags attached to remind me to remove them before printing)...

is there such a thing as solvent ink compatible waterslide decal paper/media? i've been messing around with some waterbased ink compatible waterslide media and really like the way it works for some of my products. thanks in advance! aa

if you get a good flush between black and silver, there shouldn't be a chemical issue. as for mixing pigment with the silver ink. ...don't do it. you get less optic fire from your color. the idea is to create a candy effect. metallic on bottom, transparent color on top. one issue you might...

in the case of the out of date ink chip. just do the "take out the main board battery" thing and your printer will suddenly think it's 2001. and from then on no chip will every expire due to date. i took pictures of the procedure when i did it. maybe i can dig them up.

for the sp models: if running CMYLlmlcss just choose CMYK in the rip. the printer will disregard the other two heads. if in double CMYK the you need to rearrange to six color inkset and choose the CMYK as the rip option.

at this point, i just don't understand what the problem is. maybe i'm reading wrong. proceed with the menu's requests with blank chip spots and unhooked pump lines. hook back the pump lines, put back the chips and the printer is ignorant of the whole process.

... well, i'd recommend a separate silver ink line. but as for getting all the silver out of the line for it to be dormant for a while, you can get those lines really clean because without the cart and head in the picture during cleaning the line, you can exert a lot of force forward and...

i'd gladly on a busy day pay $75. i can't get a tech to even drive out my way for that. so for us country folk, it's diy or bust.

just add a vent to the garage off of your mains system. you can close it when you don't need it. that's what i've done. a big one. so big that when i open it, it steals about a third of the flow from the rest of the house. of course, if your garage is detached then you'll need to chop a...

took a quick pic. it's an easy mod. note the shelf can be raised/lowered. it's set to the perfect height right now. the height controls the positive load on the ink supply. just run an extra line through your machine. remember to clean out the line after you use it. white ink shouldn't...

i'd assume it's similar to an fj50 switch out. if you do have a tech come by and you see how "hard" it is to change it. you will want only want to give him about $75. it will take a novice about an hour to figure it out. later on you will be able to do it in about 30 minutes.

awesome tip with the triangle!!!!!! i'm about to set up for dual cmyk. and have a white and then a silver refillable cart' mounted outside the printer. the end of the ink line will have a "y" splitter and i will just run dual white and silver from my black channel. that's what i've been...

what is the deal with dealers and suppliers not knowing what's going on in the ink world. i've had to have the same conversations with two local suppliers both denying that white and silver ink is available for mimaki. i'd be alarmed if i was mimaki. they are doing a poor job of promoting...

thanks for all the references! i think the wallscape stuff looks like what i'm going for. they seem to have many "artsy" textures. the website was odd. seems any wallpaper texture they print on, they also have an "x-digital" (unprinted/finished) version of it? i'll call tomorrow to see...

i've got a wall covering/acrylic overlay project. i won't be doing the install but i am doing the printing. what might be suggested for a nice sophisticated (wallpaper texture) media for such a project? (going in a high end retirement facility). thanks signs101ers in advance! aa

has anyone printed on PET? it'd have to be print treated PET. for the most part PET is a non stick surface, highly solvent resistant. i'd like a clear film too. in tha past i've printed on the .010 bayer polycarb, and all thickness of PETG. i really like the PETG. you can go as thick as...

yikes!!! read some of the threads about making your own cleaning solution. ...not that cleaning solution is the way to get the printer back on line (just trick it into thinking you did the wash!). that $600 in cleaning solution will cost you about $50 as a home brew. you'll never go back to...

yeah... had one smoke on my fj 50 about a year ago. completely dead printer. do not buy this printer unless you are ready to replace at least the head and main board and probably the slider board. the power supply should be fine. mine was. offer him $400 for the printer (that is if you can...

me no understand.... explain in more detail.