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Going from formed to flat may cause "hot spots" from the bulbs being too close to the surface

Glassware may have some of the same issues as car windows and IG panels. Because of manufacturing variances the surface becomes like Teflon. No matter what you do nothing will stick. We use vinyl on glassware for etch/blast masks only.

Snap function got turned on?

Full price plus markup and cutting charge. Funny thing about the gravy that Gino mentions. I always get the client that needs signs exactly one inch bigger than the drops.:banghead:

:welcome: from sunny Wisconsin.

Maybe try a steam pressure washer on the old wrap. Might be worth renting one for a couple hours.

Rate sounds fair for a probationary employee. All depends on the area too. Around here you would have people lined up for 20 bucks an hour.

Wallpaper steamer for removing vinyl. Went without for years. Ridgid rolling box and one of their crates for mobile install kit. So nice and way more professional looking. I used to carry a storage bin in the truck. PITA carrying it when I couldn't park close to the job. Like this...

If you don't have the encoder sensor positioned correctly it will error out. Too close on one side or the other or crooked has the potential to cause issues. Happened when I replaced mine. I even traced around the old sensor before removing so I had a guide...nope. Fiddly work, but it should...

Did you raise the head? On my SP540V I run the heat at 38 and 39 respectively. In fact I use that setting for everything. YMMV

Buy a Summa. No really. I also own an SP540V and got tired of ruining cut jobs, or breaking them into small pieces, and still having it "eat" the job. I've done pinch wheels and adjusted tension on the pinch wheel bar and all kinds of other tricks to get it to cut consistently. It got...

Easy enough DIY project. I get the doming kits from a real estate company out east. A piece of glass set up dead level becomes the doming table. Clear storage bin is used for a dust cover. Sewing needle and a micro-torch are used to remove bubbles. Apply a little at a time so it can flow...

FWIW. Latex does not allow the use of small pieces. I do quite well printing labels on what others deem scrap. Also don't care for the loading of material in the HP's. HP seems to be suited for production. Not a small timer like me. At this point I would need my Roland and HP. Not hating...

I've been getting my shop computers built in town. Current one is less than a year old and it's a beast. Shop that built it interviewed me about the programs I use among other things. They laid out some base recommendations. Then they researched the programs I was using to make sure there...

Too cool. Makes me want to have a go at it.

Merry Christmas one and all.

Like Vander J said, it's all in what you were trained on. I started out with CasMate 30 years ago, then Corel. Moved into Xara and Flexi for a long long time. Went back to school and learned Adobe products. Prototyping class was Corel to drive the laser. All other design classes were Adobe...

Lexus has it. Also there are some manufacturing "errors" on tempered glass for cars and businesses that make them non-stick. Friend was a professional window tinter and he schooled me on the what and why. Ran into it on a van that I did twice before I called him. From what I understand there...

If the S50670 and S70670's use the same heads, boards, cables, etc... it may be better to buy those. That way you have a ready supply of parts. That's just the way I think though. Take it for what its worth.

Get a custom match from an auto paint supplier. Can do acrylic enamel or base clear. They can put it in a spray can or half pints. I used to do it years ago before digital printing. My go to was usually toners to get the shades, fades, etc... Worked a treat. I agree with Mike Pro. Last...