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@jrdigital i mentioned before that i make my proprietary inks/clears/whites, some with different drying properties, viscosities, etc. ...different channels being switched out... not printing on vinyl metal and wood veneer only. and i figured it out. it was when i simply switched the lines to...

@ddarlak thanks, i like the idea of taking the carts out an inch. you don't think this will cause me to strangely lose the ink in the lines, or i also assumed that latent ink on the purging needle might dry up and cause an issue. for my printer, if it's a cover it's coming off. left, right...

thanks for all the advice. i think that when i do the head soak, then go around back, turn the pump lines back open, and then walk away, it cause the ink in the line to just siphon away. maybe if when i open the pump line back up, i should pull the head carriage over to allow the caps to...

@kraigsnowden ...the $2000 is what it cost me last time when i missed the "install truck" (a truck hired to carry all the various projects from one company to the site). i had to overnight a crate to washington from texas to catch up with the truck. grrr.... i've been working 20 hard hard...

i've resorted to assuming that the ink was gone from the black and magenta before i turned the pump valves to "off". i still need to know better what i did to cause this. i'm now constantly checking to see if my remaining ink has disappeared.

impossible!!! help! i'm freaking out. one, i just spontaneously ran out of ink and i have to get a bunch of pieces on a truck thursday (last time i missed this truck i was forced to overnight a crate for $2000). just got back from errands. because of the sudden loss of yellow and cyan, i...

thanks! that must be it, ruling out goblin as my other hypothesis.

i rarely use my printer. so it has a little more quirks dealing with clogs and such. also i run my own white water based ink, mimaki ss2 white ink, uv clear, and solvent clear. all of which are a bit higher viscosity and clog factors. the valves allow me to keep up with the issues that...

the jv3 has a giant bottle. i'd figure it's about two quarts. the caps in the printer have the metal screens. the best i can figure is it could be recreated by a continuous section of ink between the cap and head. i did a five minuted head soak before shutting down. there are these ball...

this has happened twice. first time noticed that yellow and cyan were empty. figured it was some odd siphon issue that could never be recreated. just in case, i put tape at the current ink level to mark progress. nothing for several days. today i go back to see, and the yellow and cyan...

i kinda disagree with the switch chemistry. i think before changing so many parts. a different regimen should be approached. yes, the ketones in the ink, if coming in contact with water, will seize up the solvent ink pigments. but why not run run pure glycol ether for a few days in the...

first try slowing down your head carriage speed, and or additionally unidirectional. you might be going too fast for the ink to get through the system. after that increase the heat on the cartridges. this will lower the viscosity of the ink. if worse comes to worse tear off the cartridge bay...

@don i used it to print white. what back before white was available for even the grand format printers. recently i bought a jv3-160sp to print solvent white. but lately i've been putting my old water based formula in the mimaki. doesn't give me the 720 resolution but is completely opaque...

you are way better off getting a $40 dell off of ebay and running a demo from pinebush (one hint the software can run forever with your calendar set back after install). and you are good to go. that printer and the rips that come with it will not be a fun experience. and will be hard pressed...

for my mimaki in rasterlink, you just shift click to separate images (color and special channel) in the rip and set the second feed for the second image to print at the same feed point (zero inches). raster or vector...doesn't matter. does this question mean that the vs640 can't...

if your cyan head is missing with yellow ink hooked up to it (yellow is dropping out) than you know you don't have a supply problem. that head probably has a clogged pump line or bad cap top, etc. are you running cmykx2? or lm lc? i don't know what ink is going to what cap...

pull some ink directly from the bottom of the syringe. when you remove the syringe does the cyan camper polyester membrane remain concave or relax? if it remains concave, you probably have some restriction on that cart/line. also, to diagnose ink starvation, swap damper/lines with a working...

i'd lose the dj. you are marketing a business, not a guy. it should speak more of what the product is. like speakers, music, excitement. the dj is just too difficult to illustrate into a brand. makes it look like a stock vector rather than a custom logo.

that kind of bad test print can be bad pumping vacuum. if it keeps returning after doing lots of cleaning, swap a working pump tube to that head and see if you suddenly get better results. if so, do some pump line cleaning.

so far you've isolated but i'd also check the inlets that the ribbons go into. just the data swap alone can give you bad results if the data itself is held back by a dirty inked up inlet. can you post a pic of the actual way it's printing stripes?