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sp's are famous for latent static build up. i saw a printing issue that would not go away. the final solution was not only to completely disconnect the printer when powering down, but then to also press the front "on" button four times slowly. this discharges capacitors.

first guess is two things. the black is getting bad data. either fried head, loose data cable, board fuse, etc. the cyan having those to missing halo's is usually indicative of a clogged head adapter. the missing spaces usually will run right below the head adapter screens (they have filters...

first TURN OFF THAT MACHINE! YOU ARE GOING TO FRY IT. make sure you've not got some wire crossed. or ink on a print head board, or ink in the print head plug. you head adapter might be leaking onto the print head. that's not streaking, that is a head printing random data.

sorry but not a fan. it doesn't look like a seasoned professional's work. lose the reflection, the gleam, the bevels, the font changes, the layout. a logo is a brain tattoo. and this just doesn't tattoo the brain.

epoxy board instead. if all else fails. do a lot of testing.

have you compared uni-directional vs. bi-directional?

that is a dream machine. congrats!

i'm not saying that there is air in the carts, that's just the method... to me if you are getting intermittent patterns after pumping... first just get the ink all the way to the damper, and just let it hang unattached to the print head adapter. come back about five minutes later. is the ink...

you can get the air out of the carts... just take it out, get a syringe designed to give horses shots, it will pierce the cart's rubber seal. be verrrrry careful to match the hole already there. in fact, i prefer to sand off the needle like tip of the syringe so it is flat/not sharp. prop...

strings? i did jam a thin wire down the tubes from the print head side to get come gelled up uv clear out of the line. stupid me running clear in a transparent tube... you can get about five feet of wire down the tube. it'd go further but it gets stuck a the big bend to go under the hull...

and you've adjusted the height of the ink supply. i've got my white cartridges mounted outside the machine and just raising them a 1/2" drastically affects the siphon. you can starve them or have them sweating white ink with minute adjustments. remember that these inks are not under vacuum...

triangle ink

it certainly would be worth a try. i recently switched from SS2 to triangle. i did some dry tests before installing. from what i could tell the triangle dried a bit slower. i figured whatever. as soon as i got the ink in the machine, i went to the usual cleaning routine. with the SS2 i...

i'd just start diagnosing the starvation. first off when you do the cycle, instead, pull the damper to get a better feel of the resistance inside the tube during the failure, when the failure occurs, is the ink receding in the line? or is the damper full as always, when you look at the...

i'd get the pumping situation solved first. the graininess can be caused by blocking to static to ,,,etc. but to be clear, the black pump line did pull color ink, it's just the color pump line that can't pull correct?

if the ink chemistry is an issue, you could add a tiny percentage of butyl carbitol to the ink and it will incrementally alter the dry time without affecting the opacity whatsoever. such as over a liter of ink, add a 1/2 teaspoon of butyl carbitol. this solvent has the cutting ability of...

you can also get a tiny brass tube and make a small union to add just a little line to fix. after cutting the brass tubing clean it up really well.

that top pick is an fj50/42/52

i had a long talk with a tech that refurbed epsons for a living. he said the same thing. he even did his own testing messing with head ranks all over the range, and the print heads printed exactly the same regardless. so who know, but that getting to be a lot of techs agreeing with each other.

the question was, is the ink acidic? i figure you should test it yourself. i seriously doubt it is for certain reasons. mainly because it would corrode the metal parts of the head causing head failure. the links were so that you could see the main ingredients. if the discussion is will this...