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We changed the black printhead, all the dampers and the capping station at the same time.

I ordered dampers and manifold/damper o-rings, so I'll have to check those areas when I get those in. To clarify -- it isn't a continuous flow. I'm not hearing it right now, for instance. I'm just guessing all the ink that was between the cap and where I drew from was emptying out. Would...

Okay, so it's happened a couple times again. The entire left half of the cyan and now part of the left halves of black and yellow. Cyan and black are still on "1" with ink sloshing around, and the yellow I just put in this morning, so they're at "9". Fill Up Ink fixes all but the cyan. I do...

We've used Great Walls a few times too. No problems.

So why would this happen all of a sudden? Air in the carts? I've only had to pull the lines when replacing dampers.

I can't believe how dumb I am. I've read that advice many times and looking back I should have just tried that first. For some reason I overcomplicated this and I got it into my head that there was an electronic issue, especially since the cyan on the left side was not totally missing. It...

A little more info, just in case -- the dampers were all replaced at the beginning of this year, along with the black printhead and capping station.

I did a test print today that got progressively worse with cleaning/soaking. Now there is only a faint trace of cyan on the left portion of the test. When I watch the pump at the back there is some cyan that flows, but it takes considerably longer to appear than the other colors. The dampers...

I hate Avery. But I use Avery Etchmark. Oracal Etch either doesn't stick to transfer tape or doesn't want to come off the backer. Either way, it makes cut designs a nightmare to apply. Well, maybe not a nightmare, but I'd say Avery is a lot easier to work with.

I use 210G on IJ35. The new 3M gloss lam is a little too yellow for me. I haven't tried the BriteLine lam though.

We do 2 vertical panels, with the split at the cargo door, so the only overlap you see is above the door.

We just did one of these. I printed the floral pattern (yes, floral) on a few end-of-the-rolls. It was at least 54"x10'. No more than twice that.

Yeah, the colors in the badge are a tad too close. I thought it was a gradient at first. I'm not liking the green outline around the whole thing either.

I don't even know what Google Places is, and your client probably doesn't either. Sounds like it won't affect him. A comment from the link: "Small businesses, here's what you should do: Display a QRcode which points *direct to your website* Simply copy & paste your website URL into a site...

Whenever I get "Failure to initialize color mod..." it's usually when I try to print a bitmap that was made on a Mac and after I've adjusted brightness, colors, etc. I don't know the exact reason, but usually I have to re-import and re-adjust. Sometimes it's just something that's checked or...

We upgraded to Flexi 10. It may be your computer is getting bogged down with a lot off points, effects, bitmaps, etc. Are you able to reopen the file? What kind of computer do you have?

I like how you've adopted "minus well". It reminds me of mistaken song lyrics.:ROFLMAO:

The logo was well received and made final after a minor addition of a maple leaf. I also changed the sunburst in the background to what I think iSign was describing. I'm happy with this one.

Yeah, I read that over again. But if they require doc'd boats to have at least 4" names, then it would be safe to assume they'd be legible at a reasonable distance. 4" seems a bit small for the name, but I guess it depends on the size of the boat.

http://www.uscg.mil/hq/cg5/nvdc/nvdcfaq.asp#15 "The name and hailing port of a recreational vessel must be marked together on some clearly visible exterior part of the hull. The vessel name of a commercial vessel must also be marked on the port and starboard bow and the vessel name and the...