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Take the ink cartridges out and then pull with a syringe through the damper to suck the ink out. Just get the bulk of it out. You don't have to flush most of the time but you could if you want to make sure all the pathways are nice and clean. If it were me I would just get the magenta out of the...

Mapping the nozzle should do the trick unless you have already used 10 maps for that channel.

In my experience Mimaki honors their warranty better than most companies.

I would just do a thorough cleaning and flush the pump tubes. Make sure the wipers are nice and clean and not bloated or warped to the point that the wiper can't slide evenly across the head. Clean the cap tops but also look underneath the head where the cap top meets up with the head and clean...

I'm not sure if it's the same on that model but usually in other RIPs and printer models that means the regular 4 pass is in high speed mode and the quality is in slow speed mode. The slower the head moves , the easier it is for it drop dots accurately.

Probably popped a head fuse. I can't remember which one it is on that machine but usually it's going to be fuse 1, 2 or 3 on the main board. Make sure to work with the machine unplugged and wait 15 minutes to let it discharge. Also make sure there isn't any ink on the head cables. You don't want...

Get a quote on the JV150 or CJV150 and you will be comparing apples to apples. The JV300 and CJV300 are dual headed machines which makes them more expensive than the single headed JV150, CJV150 and SR1641. I prefer Mimaki's MAPs technology over the wave tech Mutoh uses.

Technically in order to hold PCI compliance you should never write a credit card down from a customer ever. But since it's a self reporting thing no one ever follows the rules. As stated above, you really should get an invoice that can be paid over a secure internet connection. Then again I have...

Duplicate comment woops

You probably popped a fuse on the main board. Check your head cables for damage, debris or ink splatter and replace as necessary. Then replace the fuses.

Check the bottom of the head for any inkcicles especially if you print a lot of banner. Usually that pattern means something is dragging from the head and smearing the ink.

You want to switch the damper positions on the head, not the tubes that go into the dampers. That way you are trying to print different colors through different channels. So if black is next to a cyan and you switch the damper positions on the head, they should switch in the nozzle check...

I would do a damper swap to isolate the issue. Switch the dampers position and then run a cleaning cycle and then see what prints in the nozzle check. If the same colors don't printer in different positions, something above the head is clogged or malfunctioning. If the same channels don't fire...

Do you see any air bubbles in the ink line above the dampers? Did you change the o-rings when you changed the dampers?

Head strikes can physically damage/close nozzles Manifold can crack which lets air in and throws off the pressure The filter inside the manifold can clog or break and let particles through The piezo crystals that push the ink out can become deformed or jammed Nozzles erode over time on really...

We're locking our shipping guy in the warehouse with a bottle of Wild Turkey and a Netflix subscription for the duration of the shut down here in Denver. FedEx/USPS will be picking up daily and we have plenty of stock to hold you over. If you can't get a hold of us for tech support, leave a...

Try doing an air purge on the bulk system. Over time air can get in and cause pressure issues. I believe they want you to air purge once per year if I remember correctly.

Mimaki just released this video for anyone wondering what to do during downtime to keep your printer running properly. Stay safe!

You want to use a lint free cloth and rubbing alcohol.

Clean your encoder strip and check for any damage. It's an encoder error.