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That happens a lot in this industry. Ricoh is the head manufacturer and they make their own machines which I bet the tech knows in and out but the Mimaki uses their heads so they just throw them into it as if they know the machine already. It looks like you are getting cross contamination. Are...

I would take a look at the Y connector that connects the two cap tops together and make sure it's not clogged or partially clogged. While you are in there, flush some cleaning solution through the pump lines to make sure they aren't partially clogged as well. As far as the cap tops go, black...

What's the exact ink error is it giving you? There are a couple things it could be.

Yup sounds like a blown head fuse. As a tech I would have no problem coming back to take a look for free. Should be as easy as resetting the cables and popping a new fuse in. We all make mistakes but the difference between a good tech and a bad tech is how we handle it in my opinion.

Usually that means the jam sensor is being tripped. Make sure nothing is sticking up too high or your fingers are getting too close the roller!

The plug-in is free with the cutter or printer but they still protect it by making you have the CD to verify. Still doesn't make sense to me because you can't use it with anything but a Mimaki cutter!

We do but for some reason I have never seen anyone use it. Must be a cultural thing or something.

Agree with above. Just a note, make sure not to initialize the NVRAM. People tend to want to reset everything in that menu once they see it the first time. Resetting NVRAM basically clears everything out and that is a headache to fix if you don't have you parameters downloaded already.

The first thing I would do if I was out on a service call for that machine would be to do an air purge to get out any air that may be in the system and then run the positive and negative pressure adjustments. If you can't get the pressure right and it isn't stable, you probably have an air leak...

Are you getting any error codes? Sounds like you might have either an air pressure issue or possible a bad subtank or subtank sensor to me.

Run the "Scale Adjust" function in the adjust menu. It will print and cut a bunch of pink boxes again but this time it will feed out a certain amount of material in between each box to simulate a job with multiple rows. You just tell the machine which row lines up the best and it adjusts itself...

Did you run the PC Origin Offset adjustment from Rasterlink?

Have you run the limit position and encoder calibrations? A lot of the time you need to do those procedures after a main board replacement.

Doesn't matter if independent or dealer. If you're a tech who can help call Ronnie at 760-625-2287. Thanks!

Yeah 8 years is above average for a head actually. If you don't want to put a bunch of money into it you can always sell it on Craigslist or something. People always looking. Good luck!

Unfortunately that is a pretty clear sign the head is fried. You could try replacing the head cables and cleaning the cable terminals and that might fix the issue but it's rare. How old is the head?

I don't have a picture off hand but it's a little rubber ring that seals the gap between the ink line and the nut that attaches the ink line and damper.When you take the nut off the damper you can push the nut up the ink line and it will expose the o-ring. They tend to flatten out and cause air...

I would change the dampers out along with the o-rings as it's been 2 years, it's over due. I bet with a fresh set of dampers you could get it going.

Usually when only 1 channel fails on that model, it's a bad damper or a broken manifold. When you changed the dampers did you also change the o-rings? If not, I would start there. Also, inspect the nipple where the damper connects to the head and make sure it's not cracked or damaged in any way...

For text that small you're basically out of spec for the machine but the best way to go is high res low speed. Find a profile with a 1440x1440 resolution, unidirectional, slowest motor speed and variable dot. Then orient the print so that the height of the letters are parallel with the movement...