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What, exactly, are you doing? Is this a bitmap or is it a vector collection? Are you trying to make a CMYK bitmap out of it and then print it? To what are your rendering intents set?

Think about it. The system printed what it thought was a 12x12 rectangle. You measured the printed rectangle and if the rectangle wasn't 12x12 you input the actual measurements. Once you set the size compensation then the system should then print a 12x12 rectangle that actually measures 12x12.

Really? Assume that you're printing at exactly the same resolution as the image, This gives you exactly one, count it, one, printer pixel per image pixel. That printer pixel can only be one of the, say, 4 colors of which the print is capable or the color of the media. The possible colors per...

Nonsense. A jpg created with no compression and no smoothing has only trivial loss, if any at all. What you don't want to do is keep loading, diddling, and resaving jpg's. If you create a jpg as the final result from other sources and you actually understand your equipment the results are...

That's because a 150ppi image is more than twice as sharp as a 72ppi image. Printer resolution does nothing for image acuity as long as it it as least as large as the image resolution. The combination of image resolution and printer resolution determines the possible color gamut per image...

Exactly the one, scrunched a bit, A thousand thanks.

I need to know just what the 'yld-Fire' might be, the rest I know. It looks like some sort of 'Godfather' variation but I can't find it.

As previously noted the cartridge with the chrome label is for the old Rockhopper/Falcon machines. The only difference between that cartridge and a Value Jet cartridge is the smart card.

If you're printing at 720^2 then 150ppi is the absolute maximum you should use. The rule of thumb is you should always print at least four times the ppi resolution of the image. This insures a minimum acceptable color gamut per pixel of at least 2^16 possible colors. Visually anything 75ppi...

Bubbles are solely the result of your application technique. You might try it wet but that's a poor substitute for proper application technique. Mask the print and, assuming you're right handed, hinge it about 24"-30" from the right side. Flip the right side of the print over to the left on...

So then, where did you glean your information on Corel classes, objects, methods, and properties? Is this published somewhere? Try as I might, I've never found any useful documentation on these things?

The Condition Priority... Press menu until 'Background Settings' is displayed. Press the F_whatever key to enter background settings. Press the 'Next' key until 'Condition Priority' is displayed. Select 'Manual' and press the 'Enter' key.

Background settings. Set it to Manual. The the plotter's control panel settings will take precedence over various setup commands sent vial software. It's the only sure way to really know just what is set to what for any given job.

You have your finger on the pulse of the matter.

Do not use a specimen typeface for secondary and body copy. This one is illegible. Do not run secondary and body copy at weird angles unless you have a really good reason for doing so. You do not. Do not run your main copy at some weird out of balance angle unless counterbalanced by some...

When you changed boards did you reset the mark type and size and all of that stuff to whatever it is you were using? Is your condition priority set ON or OFF? Which mark does it have trouble reading? The first? Second? Third? Fourth?

That is exactly the point. The point of a having a good business card is not to please you, it's to please the people receiving it. Your current effort might make you feel all warm and fuzzy but to the rest of the world it's an amateurish effort and a typographical collision at sea. As well as...

You're trying to do what, exactly? Export out of Flexi into these formats or importing into Flexi in these formats? Either way, Flexi pretty much recognizes no transparency but it's own. It's standard practice in this shop to give any bitmap that's supposed to have a transparent part a solid...

Harley is certainly one of the more aggressive in protectors its brand and, yes, technically you might be liable for all manner of unpleasantness should they first find out you did this and, second decide to pursue you. On the other side of the equation, Harley has literally hundreds upon...

Depending on just what tools you have available you're talking about maybe 10-15 minutes of diddling the image. If it were mine to do I'd run it through Photozoom Pro and produce a 150ppi image of the correct width. Then open that image in PhotoPaint and drop out the background. And there you...