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Unpainted fiberglass still has a clear gel coat, which has failed. So the solution is to either have the whole thing redone or painted. Either way it's not cheap.

It's a way to get the tax money without having to expend any resources collecting it. Instead a private a company gets to profit hugely off of mostly elderly and poorer property owners. They buy the overdue taxes, tack on huge fees and interest and get the land for pennies on the dollar.

Big difference between a sales rep for one of my regular vendors or one who's selling me something for my industry and those hundreds of unsolicited calls and the few walk ins selling crap nobody wants

Try Wyld

Doesn't say it's acm. I have done some signs over the years with aluminum or other metal mounted to glass. Usually for a high end look.

Suction cups? Is it temporary? I would use mounting tape and silicone and apply something to the back of the glass to hide the mess, either a matching piece or vinyl.

We refinished some bronze letters on site. We cleaned and then buffed with polishing compound. Sprayed with clear Krylon when done. They have held up for quite a few years. I would think cleaning the whole plaque, buffing/polishing the raised letters then sealing would work.

If we have this issue and no time to get other material we will put down a white block out layer cut slightly smaller.

We make them out of flat cardboard or scrap coro. Two pieces and then some caps. Or just two oversize pieces and tape tight

That would be a great deal if in good working order. Plotter alone is worth that. Don't like no returns but if you're close enough to check it out in person...

Seriously, any holes in a roof is a bad idea, much less enough to hold a banner that large. Yes, you can fill the holes after removing with silicone or some such thing but it's always risky.

Yes, definitely mark on the backs of the letters & pattern their number (& direction for ones that can get confused).

Not sure there is such a thing, unless you are lining them up for a mortar line or raised seam We just use common sense based on the thickness of the material, the particular letter and letter height. Three studs on a T may be fine till it gets large enough to need 4 or 5.

You didn't answer my question. But here's my take. The Edge is an awesome machine within it's limitations. the biggest limit being the 11.8" limit, but tiling is pretty accurate and before laminated wide format prints took over the market we would use it for some pretty big jobs. For contour cut...

What is your application and which Thermal Printers are you considering? I have an Edge and I have tried a Summa and a lot depends on the end use

I would do a plate on the back, thru bolt, cut the excess bolt off and file down. Then put a cut across the bolt/nut (unless you use one way nuts) and cover with dab of construction adhesive.

That sounds like an aqueous HP Designjet, which I am very familiar with. A great machine for posters and interior work and a poor machine for exterior work. You will have to use coated materials designed for aqueous printers. You will need to laminate everything except posters. Even with...

Unless you are very handy and tech savvy buying a used machine without any kind of support or warranty is dicey. I have purchased used/rebuilt printers that came with a manufacturers warranty, I would look at something like that.

Gerber makes, or they did make, a floor graphics kit that included the vinyl and laminate.

Black on white