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Dumb question of the day. Has anybody tried automotive urethane clear coat for doming? It would not yellow and would give UV protection to the labels. Would only have to add hardener so it stays viscous. Only need to mix what I need for a job with little waste. Just typing out loud here...

What is the reason for wanting a "high density" print? All our perf is done in high speed mode(360x360) and it comes out great. My reasoning? Half the print is missing. It is only going to look so good whether you print at 360x360 or 1440x1440.

Good to hear this. Some people still know what customer service means.

Make sure you have competent welders. Certification for 2G, 3G never hurts either. Also make sure your welding power supplies and feeders are big enough to run .045 flux core in spray arc mode. This would be in lieu of some of the newer rigs in the market. You will also need to have a...

I only send .eps or .pdf to VW. Large files also get sent between 10 and 25 percent of original size.

Find the nearest tech college with a graphics program. At the very least you will get someone that knows how to operate a computer and Adobe products.

LOTS of mistakes: no diamond plate, skulls, or flames. Comic Sans or Papyrus weren't used anywhere. And you have a sign shop? :rolleyes: Just kidding. It is clean and no unneeded BS. :thumb: Have a safe Memorial Day.

Freehand with an OLFA knife. In the time it takes you to find an answer you'll be done.

:thumb:

On IG(insulated glass) panels used in office buildings you remove the inside rubber trim. Panel won't fall out.( at least the ones in the US don't) This will allow you to "bury" the tint edge under the trim for a super clean factory look. Trim comes out super easy and goes back in just as...

401 thanks for the vid. I'm going to try your method of leaving no tension against the separator bar. We don't have many issues with our regular laminates. But once in a while we have to use something different and waste a bunch figuring it out.

We use Tuff Tape.

Base it, clear it, flake it, 2 more coats of clear. This is just one of many places for supplies: http://www.tcpglobal.com/CustomShop/ksflake.aspx I think you're asking for trouble trying to use Ultra Metallic vinyl. JMHO

Like Stacy said: Prints are too fresh. Let them sit. Another thing is you should never have a heavy ink load for anything going on coro. All the prints we put on coro are done at high speed. What I'm trying to say is you don't put fine art on coro. 360 x 360 is more than enough. We apply...

X2on the high pressure steam cleaner. Steam is the key. One of my clients can attest to that. It ripped the graphics off the truck when a shop hand got too close. Was only s'posed to letter 2 new trucks. Ended up doing 3.LOL

Can always make your own. I usually start with a profile photo then measure the exact diameter of the rim. Easy enough to scale from there in Ai. Sticky Yard works good also.

What are the other print speeds? Spec sheet only lists maximum 300sfph @ 360 x 720.

Probably not worth it. Probably lookin' at heads, cap tops, dampers, lines, flush carts(60 bucks a pop) etc... Then you will have to pay a tech if you can't DIY. Adds up quick.

Interesting. Will watch for updates.

On large or intricate layouts we do everything at 25%. Much faster renders, etc... Easier on the RIP too. Just tell it print at 400%. Ta-da!