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It's possible for the same reasons. Once you have everything up and running, if the remote button still doesn't work, you probably need a new panel board.
Error 30 is a general operation error. I could be many things. A lot of the time it just means you don't have all 8 cartridges installed or one or more of them are expired or empty so when you try to run a print, it stops you.
As far as I know you can only do it by opening it in Flexi and exporting as an EPS. You can ask you r customer/designer to just do it for you or sometimes I see people on signs101 helping people out with this sort of thing.
Find the installation manager and open that up. It will show if it is in demo mode or not. It should be in the start menu or in the SAI folder on your C drive. I am about 100% sure that is the case. The software can reset back to demo for no reason sometimes.
I never recommend white and silver to my customers. I have 2 customers who insisted on that setup and within a year both came to me asking me to change to a different setup. Even though the Mimakis have re-circulation pumps to keep the white and silver from coagulating and clogging up the...
I would recommend the Mimakis to anyone as a tech. They are solid machines. I would suggest that you go with the CMYKx2 setup however because it is the fastest setup and the light colors and orange do not help with anything. Maybe it's just me but I have seen the output of each setup that has...
Take a look at your nozzle check to see if you are missing black nozzles. If you are, a good cleaning is in order. You may also need to replace some maintenance parts such as the cap top and dampers. Check the bottom of the head for any ink build up that may be causing the seal between the capo...
Start the machine in service mode by holding remote and function while powering on. Once it boots up, push the function button and then scroll up until you see the #Parameter menu. Hit enter and then scroll down until you see the, Cut System Parameter menu. Hit enter and then scroll down until...
The F2 and F3 fuse both protect the print head signal circuit. They pop when there is a short in the circuit. More than half the time it occurs in the print head cables. It could be due to a damaged cable or ink splatter on the leads/terminals. It could be due to a blown head as well. It could...
There are two common issues that will cause this to happen. The one I see the most on the older Mimakis is the "ink end" sensor is damaged and/or out of alignment which is causing the machine to think the cartridge is empty when it isn't. Take all of your cartridges out and look in the cartridge...
I have worked on these machines for almost 9 years. I have downgraded the firmware on machines before for the exact same reason you are. You can't do it with the new boards.
The profiles I linked to should be universal. I have used them in Rasterlink and Flexi but I haven't tried Onyx. .icc files are a standard so I don't think you will have an issue with Onyx.
Rasterlink isn't what controls what heads you can use. The printer firmware is. All new main boards come with a version of the firmware that prevents you from using the other heads and have safe guards to prevent you from downgrading. You used to be able to downgrade but not anymore.
The truth is that a separate printer and cutter is the better workflow on paper and in practice most of the time. That being said, we sell about 5 combo machines to every non-combo machine. There are probably a lot of reasons but I believe the most common one is exactly what you describe. The...
They don't make parts for the FC7000 anymore so if it goes down, you have an expensive paper weight. The FC8600 is a very good machine and I think most users would tell you that. Also look for a used FC8000 as they are just 1 generation before the 86000 series.
Printing and cutting on neon should just work on that machine. If it doesn't, the sensor sensitivity will need to be adjusted to work properly. It's an automatic adjustment but it's in the service menu.
What printer model do you have? You most likely need to just run the print feed calibration and dial it in perfectly. A lot of Mimaki users do this calibration by eye rather than using a loupe or magnifying glass. This usually works fine for the look of the print but not so much on the size...
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