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The tech is telling us we need the key for our Acuity Advance (Arizona 360) to change the voltages after replacing a head. Anyone know if there's a way around this or not?
Actually had a magenta head go out today. Came in, did a nozzle check and it was gone. I do want to try and check the temperature of the head tomorrow.
I've had the same problem for the last year and a half. I usually have dropouts when printing a full 4x8 sheet of white. Haven't been able to figure it out.
I've had a yellow head die on our Acuity Advance too. Came in and did a nozzle test and there was nothing there where the yellow should have been. Fuji said the head "shorted out"
We have a 360 GT with 256 inks. When the printer was new I was able to run almost everything on Production. Now I run almost everything on Quality Matte. Quality matte takes even longer than quality and makes it look better in my opinion.
I really dislike our Acuity.
I've ran a Arizon 360 for the last two years and it's a terrible machine. In the last couple months I've had to change a yellow printhead because the head shorted out. The carriage drive belt snapped a couple weeks ago for no reason. The next day I was getting carriage motion errors, and a tech...
We have the Fuji Acuity flatbed and lately I have been trying to cut down on white ink usage, because we're pretty much forced to print a coat of white to hide flaws in the material. I have done a lot of searching on this site and noticed a lot of people were using 99% IPA alcohol. So I went...
Been dealing with adhesion problems lately with our Acuity. We have resorted to printing white under just about everything due to all the scratches/etc.
I used the ZE1000 today for a double sided sign and still had ink peeling of.
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