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They may have made changes to the product since I used it last (3810). At the time I was thinking it was the very thin backing paper that was causing it. For LG products I typically turn the pre-heater up much higher than the print platen.
I could sit and wait for the platen heater to turn on...
The LG products I have used have been very susceptible to heat deformation in the printer. Their 3810, 3910, 383 and even their bannux materials seem to be very finicky as to how the heaters are required to be set-up on the printer.
You can dial out the deformation for the most part. Just be...
The head rank is done automatically with the new heads. That's why there's an issue with using non-mimaki heads and whether or not they will update the head rank ID's properly.
So there is still an adjustment made to the voltage of the heads when you switch them out. Whether or not they're...
A machine designed to both print and cut will make concessions to accomplish both. You're better off with separate machines for sure.
As for ink types these guys: http://www.itlgb.com at one point were touting the bio-solvent make up of their inks. They seem to have undergone some changes since...
For the giclee market they have been an industry killer. Since 99.99% of giclees are reproductions of a flat canvas, board, etc. For general photography, yeah they're not so hot. You definitely have more flexibility with the scanning backs.
I don't know about the RAW files. I started...
Did the panels line up pre-lamination?
Any time I have a panel to panel registration issue it's usually been caused by too much tension on the take up reel when it was printed.
You can't make a buck even with the betterlight backs these days. Not if somebody in your neck of the woods has a cruz scanner. They're knocking out full bed high res scans for $45 with the input profile. By the time you mount a piece of artwork, position the tri-pod, lights and get your...
You're talking about a job that was at most 7.5 square feet of vinyl (now 3). I give those guys a price and a list of things "they" need to do for me to accomplish what they want.
There's not enough in a project like that to ever recover the cost of doing site surveys, measurements etc. Unless...
I have the T-head, but for the sake of this thread we can assume the opus functionality is the same.
The only time I've ever had issues reading the opus marks is when they're on the far left side of the machine (looking at it from the front). This only seems to occur when the media being used...
They change every time I do MX graphics. I'll do test cuts until I get the right cut depth. I don't bother to change the speed from my regular settings. The big thing is to straighten out the feed path.
I guess the old summa pros had a wire basket underneath to catch the vinyl. I wish my newer version had the same type. A fabric catch seems to let wider medias kink as they can sit lower in the center. At least it does on mine. Slowing it down helps some. Mostly because I can grab it and get it...
The intellicoat magic series (both aqueous and solvent) has been the best canvas I've ever tested and I've tested tons of different canvases for giclee printing. It's thirsty and you can lay down a ton of ink. Which aids in everything from overall black density (d-max) to matching dark saturated...
The gamut of a large format inkjet (especially blue) is far superior to what's attainable by an offset press using just CMYK.
You'd need to add a special blue to your offset run to match the color properly.
That's it, I'm buying a ratchet and socket set on ebay and building crate engines for street rodders.
What's the best automotive forum to go and ask if I should buy imperial or metric?
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