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Eye4clr is correct. As long as your linearization curves don't flatten out completely they should be fine. If you find them going horizontal, usually near the top of the curve. It's an indication your ink limit for that channel is too high.

X2 Especially with heavy coverage. The longer the dry time the easier the vinyl is to work with. Laminating before the inks have cured properly will soften the vinyl and make it more difficult to install.

Since the metallic inks have been approved for use by Epson in their heads, I'm going to go out on a limb and assume the metallic inks from Roland or Mimaki will be the exact same product. I can't see both manufacturers developing separate metallic inks. If the metallic inks for these digital...

.pdf is the new .eps with full icc support. If your rip has a black point compensation feature, then you can let the rip handle the color conversion. Without that feature the 3/4 tones will appear very dark compared to your monitor. If your rip doesn't have it, then you can convert the files...

You can try using gimp. I don't think it has the same pixel limit as photoshop.

They only appear that way if you draw them right. Most are very 2 dimensional.

I found some 24x24x48 boxes I can use to roll them up nice and loose with. It's only three transit posters at 45" x 75" so it's not that big a deal.

I'll go as high as 720x720 32pass for some projects, but all my stuff is done bi-directionally, so it would be the same speed as 16 pass uni. Increasing the number of passes will help a ton with hiding the missing nozzles as well. Without seeing a sample of what you're referring to, you might...

Does anybody know how large a tube is required to roll up .030 styrene for safe transport? I know it can be rolled, I'm just unsure how tightly it can be rolled up without issue.

How does the nozzle test print? Are they all there or are you missing a bunch?

If you're missing black nozzles, you will see white lines in your media comp test prints.

Try setting the heater on the JV33 to 45/30/50 or 45/off/50. That's always worked for me with medias that are heat sensitive.

I'm not sure what your problem could be with getting head strikes on the JV33. I run complete rolls of LG bannux through mine all the time and I've never once had a head strike. The secret was to turn the platen heater down really low, but leave the pre and post heaters up pretty high. I guess...

My local Mimaki tech informed me that they've been having a shorter than expected lifespan with the Y motors. Something for us all to keep an eye on. What might appear to be an encoder strip related problem may in fact be something more sinister.

I'm looking for an easel back dieline that I can use to cut out my own easel back(s) from coroplast. Does anybody have one they could share? Shoot me a PM if you do.

Out with it, we can take it.

At that kind of quantity you're probably going to get a better price using a screen printer than a digital printer.

Use a higher number of passes to get rid of the banding. If I have something that bands on 8 pass I'll use 16 pass instead and the banding goes away. It will lay down a smoother dot pattern if you have missing or deflected nozzles as well.

I spoke with my Epson dealer, who also sold me my Mimaki. If you have a difficult location to access. Like say a basement. There's a very good chance you could tweak the chassis of the Epson when it's being moved and throw everything permanently out of alignment. As you state the Mimaki is...

Just add a dimmer switch inline to the power on the printer. Plug it in to a 220 volt line and set the dimmer at halfway to give you 120 volts. Then you can just turn the dial to the left for slow and to the right for supa-fast. What could possible go wrong?