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I like the design. I think a little node editing to create more of a V shape to the V in devil would go a long ways to making it more readable.

What we tend to forget is that as prices come down, whether through competition or drops in equipment and material pricing passed down to the customer, the market opens up to a whole new segment of customers who weren't ready to pay the previous prices. The only constant in our industry is...

Have you modified the printer so it operates with the main cover open? Seems like most people do. Chances are good that one of the magnet clips from the cover that gets unscrewed and stuck to the main chassis has slipped a bit. I bump into mine occasionally and it produces the same error. Just...

Intellicoat has a GFIOP product that prints excellent and applies to walls with standard wallpaper paste. Decent color gamut, but with a pretty yellow white point.

Dibs on white! Hah! you're all screwed!

All you need to worry about is that is sits square to the printer and has a clutch of some sort to adjust the tension. You just want enough tension to roll it up, you don't want to put any serious tension on the media. Between the solvents and the heat you'll stretch the media.

Not even close.

Measure twice, cut once. Reminds me of the joke about the Ukrainian carpenter. Sitting there scratching his head and mumbling obscenities under his breath. His buddy walks up and asks him what's up, he turns around and says "I don't know what's wrong with these stupid plans. I've cut this...

X2, this is just the place to use it.

Geez I should have thought out the math a little more. 3x9 is correct. Although 3x3 panels and right angle clips will allow for the easiest transport.

Or do it in two pieces, put together like a baseball gets sewn together. Then your pieces only need to be 3' x 12'. A box maker could easily put together the box and you could just apply the vinyl to the sides. What's the display for? Will it remain in one place or does it need to travel from...

Canon and HP have Epson covered in the color department these days. Looks at the Z series from HP and the 12 color systems from Canon. I really like the user replaceable print heads in the canons.

A little supermoto from time to time when the tire budget allows.

Neat ideas. I can see some headaches on the artwork side, but the results would be worth the effort.

My rule of thumb is if the faster print speeds, say 720x540 six pass on my JV33, start to band badly or show signs of ink starvation when running bi-directional then it's time to replace the dampers. Like others have said in this thread. If the o-rings are still tight and the filter is clear...

Good point. Is there an aperture adjustment for the i1 that will take readings over a larger area to account for the lower screen density of the grand format devices?

Try another profile and see if that's not the problem. If you sent the file as a tiff and the same problem occurred, but you're saying the problem was NOT evident in the tiff file on screen, then all signs point to a profile issue/possible corruption. If you can see the issue in the tiff file...

If the same thing happened when you rasterized the file prior to ripping then it's obviously something inherent in the file. From what you describe the problem has always been there, it just gets worse as it scales up, which problems tend to do. Without seeing the problem file it's really...

The fuzes on main boards tend to be hard wired into the board. A profitable way to turn a 50¢ mistake into a $5000 problem. There's companies out there that will remove the burned fuze(s) and solder in new ones to your old board. That's what artbot is referring to.

I run pretty much the same set-up except the summa is the S-class T head and I use Wasatch for my print cut software and it's worked fine. I think you're right on the double cut being an illustrator issue. I get the same thing occurring with wasatch. Out of curiosity what do you guys use to...