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THATgirl, thanks for posting that link. I've been browsing around BittBox all morning--what a fantastic site. Thanks again!

I really think you'd get a more vibrant yellow if you skipped the rasterizing step. Try printing from a vector swatch and see what happens.

What is a close Pantone match to that color (just so I know what we're dealing with). Also, rather than doing this in PS, can you set the yellow up in a vector file? Try setting up some swatches with a CMYK yellow mix of 0/0/100/0 and slowly adding a percent or two of magenta. I get much more...

You will still need RIP software.

Well, we successfully installed our first printhead today. I do the majority of the maintenance on the Mimaki, but I've never tackled a printhead. After watching a friend of mine, who is a Mimaki Certified Tech, install our last couple, though, I decided to give it a go. Everything went...

Cool. I don't have that option in my version. But that's good to know.

If I'm not mistaken, you will need SAi's "EnRoute" to do that.

The gradient color mode should match the colors used to make up the gradient. I would recommend converting the spot colors to cmyk colors and setting the gradient color mode to cmyk.

Assuming all is legit, that is a fantastic price for design/cut/RIP software.

I'm not familiar with the Mutoh, but it may be a wiper blade or wiper blade holder.

Nice tip, SignWorks. After all these years, I never knew that was possible. I love learning new methods. Thanks again!:notworthy:

In order to use a color within a gradient, the color must be part of your swatch table. This can be annoying at times. If you add, the color to your swatch table, then go to the gradient editor, the new color should be available (typically the last color in the table unless you've moved it).

If you zoom in, is the white edge still visible? In my experience with Flexi, the white edge doesn't show up in the print and goes away if you zoom in.

Nice job. I'm enjoying some Fat Tire right now.

I have to agree with you. Flexi has been the keystone in our very efficient, productive and profitable workflow for a decade. We use it to design, cut and print with no issues. It sucks that folks have issues with it, but we don't.

Says who?

On Mondays, I remove the rubber caps and screens and clean them thoroughly. Under the seals, are spring-loaded plastic pieces with nipples that correspond with the holes in the rubber seals. I clean these plastic pieces thoroughly, as they become gunked up with dried ink. You can depress them...

That's right, Chi. I clean the heads and rubber seals at least once a day. I attribute this maintenance schedule to my relatively low occurrence of problems and head replacements. Once a week, I completely remove the caps and screens and soak them for a minute or two in a jar with solvent...

There is no way a wiper is gonna last 3-6 months on a machine running solvent inks. No way. I change my wipers when prompted by the printer or when I notice the wiper deteriorating. I probably change once every two weeks or more. As far as the capping station. I'm running about 6 years on...

Judging from the picture, it looks like the heat is too high. But from the settings you show, the heat shouldn't be the culprit. Is the 50c, the preheat temp? Try kicking the 50c setting down to 42c or so, and see if that helps. I get this same issue with light greens mostly. Lowering the...