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Funbags!!!!!!!!!! Is this a joke?

If you are comfortable and knowledgeable enough to tweak the profile, that could be a permanent fix. Just tweaking the color sliders in the Advanced>Color tab in the Flexi RIP would be a much easier but temporary patch for what seems to be a permanent problem.

Or lower the Cyan (or better yet Lt Cyan if using 6 color). Sounds like a profile issue, but this could be a simple/temp fix.

I agree with Todd, it is RIP related. Printing greys, especially from a raster image, can be difficult and will expose any flaws in your profile. Common complainta are that "my greys are green" or "my greys are pink". The solution can be as simple as backing off the offending color a bit in...

Color Dude, I couldn't agree more regarding designing at full size. Regarding tifs, I export all psds as flattened tifs with no compression (Adobe RGB embedded). Once upon a time, I used LZW compression. However, since i was usually importing these tifs into Flexi prior to printing, I quit...

Are you using a firewire?

Fantastic link, Checkers! Good lookin out.

Thank you Captain Obvious! Just kiddin, Rep. I found a decent vector version in a clipart collection I have, just looking for more options.

Looking for vector clipart of a '48-'52 Ford Truck. Any ideas of where to purchase? I looked at Express, but didn't find one.

2000, I re-read your posts and still don't see where you tried selecting the square corner option as opposed to the rounded corner option in the outline dialog. Just trying to save you the extra step. Good luck.

Read Dennis Raap's post and you will know why.

It's the worst, and I've done it in Illustrator and Photoshop. I think Flexi is much more "scale-friendly" both manually (since proportionate scaling is the default) and using Design Central.

When you enter the outline dialog, there should be red square with a black square inside of it near the bottom right. Select the drop down menu and select the solid red square (you probably have the red outline checked currently) which is called "with backing". This will produce a solid...

I run a Mimaki running Triangle full solvent inks, and I can tell you that denatured alcohol absolutley will not remove the ink from my prints. I can scrub the prints with alcohol and have the faint color of ink remaining on the paper towel, but no noticeable difference in the print itself...

Here are my recommendations on types of material followed by what we use. Opinions will vary I'm sure: Economy vinyl / no lamination (Oracal 3651) Depending on substrate and life-expectancy of sign, anywhere from Economy vinyl / no lam to HP vinyl with laminate (Oracal 3951 with 290 lam)...

I use Triangle's bulk cleaning solution (and Triangle Inx). I use Tech Swabs from Feller's. I typically saturate the swab with cleaning fluid, clean a bit, soak the excess fluid with a paper towel and continue cleaning. You can use the same swab repeatedly if you wish.

We have a jv3-160s. I get the cleaning solution in litres. It takes a looong time to go through one of those. To make the litre more manageable, I pour it into one of the smaller bottles. That lasts maybe 4-6 weeks? As far as swabs go--1 a day.

I found a couple that were close, but no cigar. Here's Rockwell Extra and Stymie Extra Bold (from top to bottom). I included Serifa Black at the bottom but it lacks the crossbar across the "A" among other things.

If you are gonna rasterize it anyways, you can open it in Photoshop. Photoshop will often open newer versions of Illustrator. I have PS 7 and can open Illy CS2 files that CS1 won't open.

Very annoying. I get the same problem when zooming in very closely on small objects and attempting to edit nodes.