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Update in case anybody is interested... It's Tuesday, the magical solenoid arrived this morning, did not fix the problem. Fortunately the technician Epson sends us understands our frustration and went ahead and ordered just about every other part imaginable as well. So far, because of what I...

Like OldPaint said, because there's a market for it. It's the manufacturer's response to more and more people wanting cheaper temporary signage, partly due to the poor economic climate and partly due to the proliferation of increasingly more affordable digital equipment in the industry.

This is absolutely true. For the record (I should have pointed this out) my suggestion of manually replacing a color with a new formula is a bandaid and obviously only works on areas of solid spot colors. It's not a way to fix red in a photographic image or an image with any gradation of color.

Ha! That's not a bad idea! Oh, and in case anybody's interested, it's 6:45 PM and I'm still waiting for this conference call from Epson and my dealer... I'm going to go ahead and guess they're avoiding me.

Oh god I used to run an IRIS. Talk about amazing prints, but good god was it slow and troublesome. I don't miss that thing.

So far you were in the lead if I went the HP route, but they sell the same machine, and if it comes down to it, I'll seriously consider buying it from them if it's the only way I'll be able to get resolution out of this Epson issue. I hate being forced into that situation, and I'll have to think...

Haha! Not immediately, no space, but it's in the plans within 12 months if/when we expand next door. Larry, good to hear you've had success facing what I'm facing. How much did you have to fight with the dealer and manufacturer before you elevated your actions?

Yes. The chassis is built around the VJ1614, the ink train, heads and electronics, plus some other incidentals, are where the differences lie. There are people who absolutely love the GS6000 and have zero problems with them, and there people who have identical problems to ours, very...

I'm glad at somebody benefited, honestly! I'm regretting the decision not to go with another Mimaki as well, obviously. The only leverage I can dangle out in front of my dealer is the money I spent with them last year and the flatbed we're buying any day now. If they want any future business...

Oh, and somebody from Epson tech support did offer me a HALF SET OF INK for the trouble since the printer will be down waiting on the part... A half set. For real.

It's not much of a secret (on here anyway) that we've had a less than great experience with our Epson GS6000. It was purchased specifically to print wallpaper, but it can't handle the media and craps out in one way or another whenever we try to run it. It can't handle any heavy media, it won't...

Has anybody ever successfully gotten a dealer or manufacturer to take back/buy back/replace a piece of equipment that is not performing as promised or expected? Without ending up in court? If so, how did you approach it? Any negotiating tactics I should consider?

You shouldn't need to laminate them if you're solvent or UV printing them, assuming they're short-term posters. We've done similar jobs both ways and the conclusion is if someone wants to deface a poster, they'll be successful with or without laminate, so if it's not going to be up super long...

Glad that worked for you. Reds are really hard to hit if you let toe RIP manage it, but overriding it manually can net some great results. The CMYK formula is also critical, it seems like people commonly assume 0/100/100/0 is going to be the best red but it's not very rich and leans to the...

Wallnoodle.

With the right profile you can get really nice red, but it's a pain. I don't know about Flexi's RIP, but there should be a way to go in and replace colors in the file with manually entered CMYK values. If so, try C7/M100/Y90/K5 and see what you get. We get the best reds with this mix, but you...

We've had the same experiences with Laminator's products, we've stopped using them as much as possible now too, and refuse to use any wood product (short of for a sandblasted sign). Go composite, it'll last much much longer.

We can help you with that, PM me more specs (material required, quantity, etc.) and I'll get you a quote!

We've been having the best luck with Avery MPI2050. Orajet 3850 can have a muddy yellowish/brown tint on white areas when lighted, the Avery seems to stay the whitest. Laminate with cast matte.

Yup, encoder strip, which you already figured out. And also, never clean the encoder strip or eye with anything but a lint-free cloth lightly dampened with water (they recommend distilled), they are easily damaged, as you've also figured out...