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Yep this is one of Pierce's fonts. I have something close that I use but I can't remember the name of it right now, when I get to the shop tomorrow I'll check.
The 3M 680CR is pretty impressive as far as what it will conform to. I can wrap the new Ford tailgates with it and not have any bruising in the deep recesses.
I got it back up and running. I swapped print heads several times and cleaned everything real good and finally it decided it was good with it. I'm going to order a new printhead just in case. But no I never turn it off, it stays in sleep mode when I'm not using it.
My L25500 is telling me the #3 YK printhead is bad. It has told me this before, and also gave me a message saying I needed to re-seat this printhead. I have always been able to pull it out, put it back in and it's fine. But now it's telling me the print head is bad, and no matter what I do it...
The old logo in my avatar has served its purpose, but I was never really happy with it. I would like to do whatever I need to do to fix this new one up so I can use it. I guess us fire truck lettering guys are just good at breaking the sign rules... we abbreviate things, we will make things too...
If you are going to be printing and installing the reflective yourself, use the 3M 680CR if possible. Yes it's expensive, but it is a top of the line reflective and its great to work with. As far as removing the old stuff, I use my Red Tred eraser wheel. For the few times that it doesn't work, I...
The too many fonts thing gets me every time. I really need to learn to pick a couple and stick with them haha. I can work on that, and I think I may have an idea for the background. If I keep the chevron, but darken it a little and do somewhat of a fade that fades to black around the edges...
I have posted several logos on here looking for feedback, and always got great responses. Let me start out by saying I am by no means great at designing logos, but I am working on it. I can turn out fire truck graphics all day long, but logos aren't something I do a lot of. I have been searching...
My comment about the RTape wasn't directed towards you at all. I completely agree with matching the rest of the fleet. I just don't try to "push" the RTape products for new installs unless it is a matter of matching something. I would put 23 kt. hand laid gold on every truck if I could, but like...
I am not a fan of putting the RTape gold on fire trucks. I will do it if the customer insists or it has to match older work, but then it absolutely has to have clear laminate over top and extending past the edges to seal it. It will quickly turn silver if it sees a lot of sun. For most trucks...
As others have mentioned, there are many types available and a better picture will help to identify what you need. If this is going on a fire truck, you have to be careful about what you use. You can't just order the cheapest imitation gold you can find and slap it on there, it will either turn...
I've noticed a lot of us do the exact same job very differently. I never really gave it much thought, but then I began to wonder if maybe there is a reason for why we do it differently? What made me think about this is installing some lettering on a truck... the layout is wider than it is tall...
That should not need to be edge sealed, but on a boat it may not be a bad idea. But I don't use Sign Gold, I use the Real Gold brand. I just recently learned that Real Gold has changed their recommendations, they now say edge sealing is not required for any of their gold products.
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