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Tell your graphic artist friends to charge twice their normal rates to make it marginally decent. Though, in my case, most have already beat me to the suggestion.

Gotta love all those stock images, used on so many listings. Amazon in the US tends to be 30%+ higher in general in the US at least. eBay too, at least on wide format stuff. Though, not familiar with your market.

I've got piles of the things now, not worth terribly much as 7 is like $45. Might get lucky and manage to sell one on eBay. Can also use the code to upgrade for free in most cases.

First thing to do is see what devices are compatible with your workflow, RIP and other software and go from there.

Most heads that are 'rebuilt' are junk. For a while on some heads, it was actually feasible to, with the proper tools, remove the nozzle plate and old glue and install a new one. But the day of the DX5 being worth $1500 and people buying photo printers just to yank the head is long gone and...

I do a lot of remote assistance on Mimaki but am not in the area. What kind of issues are you having and with what printer(s)?

On most Mimaki parts, stuff on eBay and AliExpress are much higher than proper suppliers.

The origin sensor is a beam-break switch that the little tab goes between and tells when the carriage is in home position.

If things start walking, tends to be tension more than rollers. Most shops tend to use standard widths as well, so you don't move them that often. Set rollers so most or all are within marks for your most commonly used media and move as needed in special cases.

As long as the rollers are on the grit area as designated by the marks, you should be fine.

Yup, that'd do it as well.

A nice large white patch behind the cut marks goes a long way, but I typically generate cut files outside Rasterlink. Easy workaround is plop down a white sticker as it's printing on the 4 corners (pause print for safety) in each corner for good contrast, so the marks read better. Also, a...

This thread was last updated in 2014, so probably not.

Most I run into are rebuilds. Manifolds and gaskets are cheap, so a typical rebuild would be a cheap job to do, and the DX4s are dinosaurs at this point (unless you're Roland). Lots of machines coming up for scrapping, so pulls are pretty common. I just grab new ones from Digiprint for $400-ish...

Also a suitable part number, the head went through a few versions.

I think that is current, will have to check later today.

Bearings would likely be my guess, the idler and drive pulleys both use 2 bearings. If one is dragging a lot more than the other, it will cause the belt to 'walk' towards the edge of the pulley and wear out. The pulleys are available, but they are stupid expensive (hundreds of dollars each). As...

Brushes wear out, and carriage motors regularly encounter some crazy high forces. Sometimes just swapping the belt and doing a proper cleaning and retensioning of the system will also help. If you feel daring, servicing the motor and changing bearings also go a long way. If you can, spring for...

Same head as a UCJV300 https://us.digiprint-supplies.com/en/mimaki-gen5-maintenance-head-u-assy-m020236 That said, can be connection issue, or possibly slider board. Hard to tell just by guessing though. Sounds like a tech might be in order.

EPL boards need to flashed with a generic firmware before swapping them into a different machine type, looks like you have 2 different versions going on as well. Best bet is just finding a compatible board in the first place and hope you have backed up parameters to load after the swap.