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Do you have any tips or tricks do you use for pull back printing? Best option I've found is moving my outer rollers in more than normal. Instead of being on the very outermost grit rollers I'm moving them in to the next set. So they're in about 4-5 inches from the edge of the material. Even...

I run Substance 2755 as my standard and I use the 3755 as well. Has always been good to me.

The build layer is 100% of each color. (Cyan 100%, Mag 100%, Yellow 100%, Black 100%.) No clear is involved.

I'd say try some plastic epoxy to piece it back together temporarily until you can get a replacement.

If you want to do raised under the 4 color. Best way would be to make a White ink layer and a Build layer (100% of CMYK) for what you want raised up. Regular ink and white are thicker than the clear and will build up faster. I'm not totally familiar with the 300 but you should be able to do 5...

Thank you for helping me along with this! The only way to go really high with them is really doing 2 passes. 1 Pass will only get you so high and then you either need to do overprints, which will screw with your 4 color layer, or do 2 pass with pull back or by reading the crop marks. So this...

Just did 4 sheets of these 8up labels. Printed 1st pass 600x1200, 4 color and then scanned the cut marks. Reset my scan width and positioned the gloss files (without cut marks) in the same scan offset as the 4 color and then up in the feed .1875" and let it print. The gloss is slightly off but...

I'll have to keep experimenting. I was using Orajet 3164 (4mil) I have some 6mil coming today for stickers that I'm going to try. Guess it's just finding a happy medium and setting customer expectations on this sort really high raised printing. I've had some success just running tests with the...

So as I've been trying lots of things on this and pull back was working ok with the material I was using. The backing material was fairly slippery compared to the Orajet 4mil I was trying which has rougher backer. The orajet material bunched right up in front of the rollers as soon as the middle...

Thanks for the added info. Sounds like I have to experiment more. My Mimaki contact hasn't gotten back to me on help with raised printing yet. Also have tried the 2.5D printing but it hasn't worked, not sure if it's buggy or I'm missing something on it yet since I have yet to find someone who...

Yeah that's what I've been playing with. I think some of these poeple may have gotten stuff that was done on a flatbed. Not actually having it in my hands its hard to tell how "raised" the prints are. I think it's making me question what I'm doing since I have nothing to compare it to.

So I was experimenting this weekend with overprints. Did 2 layer, overprinted 2x, and 3 layer, overprinted 3x, now I see where you can get the height with the clear ink. But you have to compensate the 4 color layer for the overprints though. Unless there is a trick to only having it overprint...

eCut is something of what I've been looking for. Just having trouble with the demo in illustrator.

As far as I know there is no white ink for the S40600. maybe the European market has a different version. There is no built-in cutting. There is a slot just in front of the platen where you can run a knife across to cut your sheets. Maintenance is a breeze with it and it tells you when you need...

That sounds exactly what I'm trying to do. If you don't mind sharing in a bit more detail how you set these up in Rasterlink I'd be very appreciative. I think I'm missing something when it comes to this. Probably something simple that eluding me or something I don't know of yet.

I think what the idea is that it sets a new origin point. It took me a few tries to figure out the offset for the clear layer after but it worked ok. I still like pullback printing as it's been dead on the few times I've tried it.

What's the highest raised print you've made? I guess seeing how this works more. To do something really raised. It would have to be 2 passes and then overprinting with the clear to build it up. So I'd have to print my build, white and 4 Color layers first. Do mark detection and then run the...

No. I'm hoping they make take a suggestions from users and implement it into a firmware update to make it an option.

Cutting with the holographic was dead on, had no issues with reading the red filled mark boxes. That would be a good option to use either white or the red fill on those. That's a good suggestion for them.

I'm going to try to run some stuff from Cut Master to my FC9000 but it's not ideal. Can't wait for Onyx to update and support the 330 so I can move it all over to that workflow that I use for my S40600. I say the cutting is different because vinyl and lam are all one thickness and the blade...